I have just a single disc TQ and a valve body in mine, but wanting to rebuild it soon with a triple disc TC, billet input shaft and replace some of the internals. What kind of mess would I be getting myself into if I wanted to do all the work myself?

 

I would make sure you have the proper equipment for the job first, and make sure your fairly mechanicly inclined but even then you said some internals other than the valve body and I myself won't go into transmissions due to my lack of knowledge on the internals valve bodys arent bad and torque converters are manageable, input shaft is a little tricky but doable but internals i'll let someone else lay their opinion on that one. I havent personally done a 48re but ive had to replacements on older chevs and Ive watched instructionals on how to do the 48re and I wouldnt think twice about doin it myself to save the shop cost.

 

Fact: if you constantly drive ANY transmission like you stole it all the time;
a: you have watched Fast & Furious way to many times
b: it WILL break no matter stock or a kazillion hp
c: don't come on here whining about what a pos your tranny is or whatever programmer fried your tranny, after you did just that.
d: price and try to locate a new manual replacement, heck just try to find someone who
knows how to "actually" work on them, before you throw your auto "under the bus". (there is a reason after many years my employer has been spec'n service trucks with autos)
e: my primary pilot car got 161,000 mi out of his 05 48RE, running a Bully Dog TD 90 hp from day one.
f: preacher man, a client at my friends shop, closed in on 300,000 mi on his 48RE (stock program but driven hard)
g: mine, 05 with 82,000 mi, last 23,000 mi w/ Bully Dog on Crazy Larry
h: drop your pan and service your transmission (I personally DO NOT buy into the flush unless you have had it since day 1 and have performed regular flushes since day one), change the filter and fluid (use Valvoline +4) reuse or buy a NEW THICK (read: factory) pan gasket, adjust bands properly, "adjust" line pressure and most importantly, REMOVE the torque convertor anti-drain back valve (start or put in neutral briefly before rolling)(all this info is readily available, just got to look).
i: if your looking that really nice auto shift pattern, you bought the wrong make.
Now, all that being said, if unfortunately for what ever reason one has a failure or is building for a specific big power goal (and actually has the funds to do it) or even is doing BIG towing, by all means, buy that "built" tranny. But to contribute to someone else kids college fund or motor home fund over popular opinion is plain dumb.

 

[QUOTE=dangerous1965;965160]Stock plus smarty = toast!!
Get a TQ and Valvebody at a minimum!
reducing line pressure sounds like slipping clutch packs and fried steels!
Call Goerend and do it right the first time![/QU

maybe someone could help me out... i just instaled a superchip 60hp tow in my truck with k&n cool air intake and muff delete and cat delete... clutch seems to slip a lil from time to time if i get down on it a little bit... should i take it out untill i can beef up more!!??

 

Take it out "or" loose" some weight on that right foot.