If you're pulling the valve covers, there is no reason not to do both while you're in there, unless cash is an issue. You can always just do the STC fitting now, since that is most likely the culprit, but you may find yourself digging back in the next day cause it didn't cure your issues. All are known leak points.

You COULD start with just dummy plugs, but typically the STC fitting is the culprit. It's notorious. They say if your truck makes it past 100k on the original you're VERY lucky.

 

To get the STC fitting and the standpipeps and dummy plugs is going to cost around $150.
Agreed that the STC fitting is the most likely cause of your problem.

 

can someone point me in the direction of a step by step write up of the stc and dummy plug job. im a little nervous about doing this i just dont want to **** anything up. but i odviousily dont have the money to take it somewhere to do it. btw thanks to everyone who posted. i really appreciate the help.

signed,
-diesel newb

 

OK ready??
first disconnect the ground on both batterys.
next remove the cooler pipe on pass side from turbo to cooler.
unbolt the oil supply line from top of turbo and from oil cooler cover, then pull it out of cover.
undo the intake off the turbo, good time to check out condition of air filter too.
remove both band clamps off turbo, one from exhaust side and other from Y pipe.
you might have to pry between the clamp and pipe to get it to come loose.
Remove the 3 10mm bolts from turbo to pedestal,1 on pass side right below actuator/oh yeah remove elec. connection off actuator/ 1 on drivers side,1 on back sidethat is vertical, I usually get it from pass side by going over the exhaust pipe with a extention.
remove turbo by pulling up on it then kind of roll it out forward and to the pass side.
next remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold down the turbo pedestal.
Once pedestal is removed you will see the HPOP cover at the back, disconnect the elc. connector on IPR that is screwed into drivers side of cover, it has a foil wrap around it that is held on with velcro or snaps.
Remove IPR using 1 3/8 or 35mm wrench or IPR socket if you have one, or big crescent wrench if you have one.
Undo the bolts that hold the cover on and remove.
unbolt th 2 bolts that hold the STC fitting to branch tube
Then remove the bolts that hold the pump down and remove pump.
The new stc fitting comes with a bracket to align the fitting, don't know if it has instructions or not.
After Installing the new STC/which is no longer a "snap to connect" reinstall pump and cover with all new gaskets and Orings/they should come in the kit.
Whole job should take 6-8 hours depending if you have help or not
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Dummy plugs and stand pipes will take about 2 hours if you have a helper and if you do it at same time as STC fitting.
With air cleaner removed take out the 2 8mm bolts that hold the degas bottle and pull it forward toward drivers side.
unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the FICM to valve cover.
Lift FICM up and pinch each one of the 3 connectors to remove them, there is a clip on both side of the connector, pinch them and pull the conn. off starting with the front one, when you reinstall them start in the back one and make sure you hear the 2 clicks when reinstalling each one.
Next loosen all the valve cover bolts about half way, them unsdo them all the way, by doing this the bolts will stay in the valve cover gasket and makes it alot easier to reinstall, gaskets are reusable.
Make sure you have a 10mm and a 12mm allen wrench, socket types are the best.
with valve cover off you remove the dummy plug with 10mm allen then reinstall the new one with the 12mm allen. then remove the 10mm allen at back of oil rail that is for standpipe.
Next unbolt the 8 bolts that hond the oil rail down and lift it straight up, be carefull doing this, you dont want to really rock it back and forth too much so you avoid damaging the orings in top of injectors. sometimes you need to ply slightly to get it started.
remove the old standpipe from backside of head and replace with new one.
Reinstall the oil rail and torque bolts to 10ftlbs, just be carefull when putting it back down on injectors, once it is started you kind of push down and very slightly rock it to get it to seat.
After oil rail is bolted back down put the new 12mm part of standpipe into oil rail.
Replace valve cover and bolt everything bck up.
Pass side is a little harder to get to all the bolts for valve cover, the bottom back 2 bolts we get from the fenderwell area, alot easier.
You will have to undo the elec. connection on the ICP sensor but you don't have to remove it.
Hope this helps.

 

thanks that does help alot. i really really appreciate it.

 

Check this out. I think this is more aimed at the International engine repair, not the Ford, but it should be pretty close.

 

Oh yeah, it helps alot to undo the harness that sits right above turbo, pull the 2 plastic pins right above the turbo then the harness will slide to drivers side about an inch. Pull the harness over the mounting area of the degas bottle then you can tie the harness up out of the way, we usually put a couple tywraps together and tie it to the windshield wiper .