You know... You don't have much smart kind of tools right? And you don't want to start dumping money by throwing parts at it blindly right?

What is it really going to cost you to take a volt meter and check it out? Even unplugging connectors does cost anything, right? You've already done more than that in labor and it's been how long now?

Just saying. Thess are things that you do can do to narrow it down and track things down with what you "have" or can easily borrow. You need to rule a few things "out".

Me? I'd use one of my scanners, my laptop with AE or my Android phone with Car Gauge Pro or Torque Pro..... But you don't have those, nor do you have ready access to those... so I'm coming up with alternative diagnostics for you to be able to find your problem. There are many ways to skin a mouse...

Attached are some instructions.

 

I have pulled connections to check if anything has mad It go away and I have also wiggled wires and checked fuel system pressure, it is such a intermittent problem I do not know were to go, I have check the wiring harness for the injectors, all were good and all made the truck start idling weird when pulled, so I know its not them, and its intermittent anyway, I just need to know if this has happened and what it could possibly be? am I looking for electrical problem or fuel at this pint or what? then I can start diagnosing better.

 

Let me look on mine to see what you are describing.

Mine's going to sit for a while anyways. It got broke into sometime Tuesday night. They stole $1000 in tools, broke the door panels off to steal the speakers, cut the carpet down along the middle of the transmission hump, broke pieces of the dash trying to get the to the radio, stole my pillar gauges and my tuner chip.

I had my tools in there to pull the turbo... but the exhaust bolts wouldn't let go... so was stuck while the rust penetrant had a chance to work. Insurance is paying for the damage and most of the stolen truck parts... but not for the tools. I feel violated. They even took my 20 ton jack, tire chock blocks, 2 gal's of antifreeze and the can of rust penetrant I was using!!! I'm disabled and that will take me a while to get back how it was. I was saving for injectors, but now...

Looked. Down low on the driver's side? Under the Fuel regulator assy, but into the fuel bowl? That's where the connector for the fuel heater goes through. It's just an o-ring... To get that one, it would be cheapest getting a single o-ring at a hydraulic repair shop... Otherwise it's in a fuel bowl seal kit... I got mine for $13:
1994 5 1997 7 3 Ford Powerstroke Diesel Fuel Bowl Reseal Kit | eBay

But that leak is on the low pressure side. It wouldn't cause an intermittent bad running problem like you're getting. Just something additional to that. Now if you had a leak in the fuel system on the suction side... it would. Like sometimes happens with faulty rear tank pickups, when it is also less than 1/4 tank... Then those will suck some air.

I've also seen it where the older pre-94's got a leak in the return line... But those lose their prime, don't want to start, but once started run fine.

You said '95 right? Since you have to reseal it anyways... I'd buy a reseal kit and reseal the whole fuel bowl. The 94.5's to 95's have a fuel actuator w/screen on the front drivers side of the fuel bowl or a little metal fuel screen between the fuel regulator assy. One of those two could be clogged. People don't usually clean or service those... like they do the fuel filter. So, no telling how long it's been since they were cleaned... right? Being your's is a '95... depending when it was made, it could have either. Usually the 94.5-95's had the fuel actuator bowl and the 96-97's had the little screen. The 94.5-95's also had a check ball under a plug cap near the fuel drain valve. Sometimes those get gunk built up in it there. While you're at it, you could check the resistance on the fuel heater. Just remember that the threads on the black filter stand pipe is "left hand" thread. (You need to take that off to change the your leaking o-ring.)

 

I also noticed that I have a oil.leak when starting my truck cold, it puts out a pretty good puddle but once it warms up it stops, I tried finding were it came from but I can't, now I'm starting to think hpop orings possibly??

 

O-rings, which the 7.3 has a lot of them... generally, when they start to fail, will leak more when cold... warm up... swell a bit and seal.

If an oil leak when it's cold and when you first start- That's usually, most often, the oil cooler o-rings. The lines come out of the oil filter housing. And leak down on the driver's side of the motor. That will usually be down the filter, on the driver's side frame rail; on the power steering box, etc. They will leak when cold... then when the oil warms up, the o-ring will swell... and seal a little better.

HPOP o-rings, when they leak, it's usually when you're driving, when the pressure is higher. Sometimes though, they will follow the usual o-ring pattern of leaking when cold. They are on top of the motor. Their leaks will collect in the valley, on it's way down the back of the motor/bell-housing.

Both those are sometimes hard to ID, as they will both show up initially as being intermittent ...and sometimes it's like you cleaned it off, then suddenly it look's like Oil's come from everywhere!!! I usually park the vehicle in question at a slight angle... angling with the passenger side lower. That way I can tell better, if the cold-start leak is coming from the driver's side (oil cooler lines) or the passenger/rear of the motor (HPOP lines).

 

The leak is going down off the steering gear box and dripping on the front axle in front. And for the leak it is and the fuel actuator, connected to the fuel bowl drivers side, it has a little red wire going to a plug thing that I believe is the regulator? Its a 95 but the bowl is off of a 1997, so its got the screen because the old had the bowl and this does not. But with the fuel leaking being on the fuel regulator is that suction Side or no?

 

Trying to follow this answer, as you split off into two leaks, one oil leak and one fuel leak...
Oil leak? Then that is the oil cooler.
Fuel leak(s)? Then you might have both a fuel actuator bowl and a fuel return screen. Both could have the possibility of being dirty and reduced flow.

*** Get that fuel bowl seal kit I linked to... It has the o-rings for both 94-95 and 96-97 fuel bowls... with some fairly detailed included instructions and pictures. The guy that put that kit together did a good job making that easy... and replacing some of the stock o-rings with "better" Vitron o-rings that last longer than the stock did (for Bio Diesel and low-sulfur diesel).

That is not on the suction side. Anything on the tank side of the mechanical fuel pump is the suction side. The lines that go from the fuel pump to the fuel bowl... then to the fuel bowl are low pressure fuel side... Then that side goes back to the fuel pump... and from that side of the fuel pump to the rails in the heads is the high pressure side (look at the diagram below). This included one side of the fuel pressure regular, which is in that '95 housing on the right side of the fuel bowl that is bolted to your 97 fuel bowl. But the other side of that regulator, the exhaust side of it, is the fuel return side, which goes goes to the tanks. On some, there is also a fuel filter restriction sensor (follow link here), that, on mine, has a brown wire going to it... that screws into the fuel pressure regulator assy/housing. Those sometimes leak, where the plastic head is crimped into its housing.

Is that enough info to get you started?

 

That helped a lot and now I understand NY fuel leak is coming from that sensor just as you described with the plastic cap. Now as you said that is low pressure correct? So that would not affect my problem, now if that sensor is bad could that cause this problems?

 

Make sure the pigtail connector to the CPS is clean. Believe it of not, I cahnged two CPS direct from Ford (grey) and my 97 ran worse with each one. Put the old one back in after cleaning it and replacing the O ring. Cleaned the connector...truck fired right up and has run fine since. CPS is very sneaky and has to be installed right, all the way in and tight. it is actually a good idea to change the connector as well....just a little oil in it will do just what you describe. Any codes?

 

Would that cause it to miss like it is, at one point it acted like it was running on only four cylinders