I have a 1995 f250 with 216,000, has a ts 6 PS chip, cold air, 3" dp, 4" exhaust, 205cc injectors. It started about a 2 weeks ago, I was just driving doing about 65 not smashing or letting off the gas and the truck would just randomly skip a beat like it shut off for a split second, so its cold and winter here and I added some more PS fuel additive think maybe I got some water in her. Well after adding a bottle and topping her off from half tank it stopped for a while, about 2 days. Then it came back and this time it would start skipping and acting like it was out of fuel and would shut off. So I limped it home. Changed the fuel filter added some 911 to fuel bowl and tank as it was in the negatives. I also put a new cps in just to make sure. Well sure enough it ran good all day, no problems. Parked in the shed that night and plugged her in. Woke up the next morning and went out and started the truck, let it warm up for about 8 mins on high idle. Went back out to leave and didn't even make it out of my drive way and it was back. So I didn't have the time to fix it for a couple days, parked it and plugged it in. About 3 days later I shimmed the fpr after testing the psi and it ran good all day again. Parked it at night and this morning back to the problem, I need help!!!

 

What do you have in th way of tools and test equipment?

Intermittant problems like this can be a pain. Big thing is to track it down while it is there. The tools I have to do this are Autoenginuity, Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro as monitoring aids to monitor sensors and systems... record datalog files. Also a VOM.

What I would be looking at is ICP (HPOP) PSI, Engine Oil temp, Exhaust Back Pressure PSI, Injector pulse width...

First thing would be to ask if it is doing that on a particular tune? On the stock tune also? Next would be to ask if you also have an OEM HPOP to support your 205cc Injectors? That falls into looking at your HPOP pressure under a load, WOT between 2500-3000 rpm (usually between 5-75 mph).

Second would be to ask just how cold it is there. Along with that, you didn't mention having any turbo mods. This seems to occur are it sets overnight and you keep mentioning you add fuel additives to it... So wondering if it's in the EBP System... You didn't mention deleting your EBP Valve or a Turbo with a EBPR blank, so I'm assuming they are still there.

if so, start it up, look at the Turbo from looking over the grill, on the exhaust side, where the downpipe mounts, is the EBP Valve. Under it is a lever, where it connects to linkage that goes to the EBP regulator... Is it open or closed? If closed, look under the intake side of the turbo, along the inside edge of the valve cover, at the top of the turbo pedestal... There sill be a 2-wire connector there. Disconnect it and see if your EBP valve opens up. Drive it and see if your problem is still there. (This is where mine is buggy and I'm trying to trace that down today.)

The reason I say that, is when it's real cold, the Engine Oil temp needs to get over 140F for that system to get bypassed... so there is an exhaust restriction there. It takes mine longer than 8 minutes to warm up. If I just take off, it's about 15-20 miles down the road. It is supposed to get bypassed when under high load or high rpm... but even mine is not doing that at the moment. I'm trying to track that down in mine, but in the meantime, it's okay to drive it without that hooked up (as long as you warm it up a little before taking off).

Another thing might be the fuel heater... Easy to check the resistance on it... and to see it it's getting voltage when cold.

But you have other things also. So I'm not assuming that yours is the same. Like I said, I would monitor things to see just "what" is going on. Without monitoring tools, you just have to check everything out with a volt ohm meter to rule them out... but sometimes that seems a little blind, compared to seeing live data. Yours seems more along fuel- quality or quantity...

AE is spendy. But you can see and test everything. I love it, but it is overkill for every day.. and some people just can't afford it. Besides, I don't like leaving my laptop in my truck, if I don't have to.

I have an Android phone. I bought a Bluetooth OBD adapter. I use Torque Pro to monitor "things" just like I would in AE. You can setup and save a profile for your vehicle... and start it up with that set of gauges. Car gauge Pro makes a good Scan tool for OBS PSD's and you can do things like doing an Injector Buzz tests from your phone. But it is more an OBD II Scanner. You have to set it/configure it to a vehicle every time it starts. If you already have an Android phone, you could do both those, with the adapter for under $30.

Those really will give you abilities to see what is going on under the covers, without having to throw a lot of money out there. With the price of parts, such as sensors, just replacing parts is too expensive. The first repair, it will pay for itself. That same argument could be made for AE... but more cash outlay, that could be used elsewhere... like for fuel, food, parts, etc.

That is just some of my thoughts.

 

I do have the stock turbo and hpop.
I checked the ebpv a couple weeks a go and disconnected it. It does it on any of the tunes as well. I was talking to a guy and e said take the ts chip out of the pcm and try to if that gets rid of it, I guess there know for that? And the only cases I have heard is that it just wipes out the computer not make a intermittent problem like mine, should I do it any way?

 

Yes... Then you know it's not that and takes it out of the equation.

 

Well I got time to pull the chip today, same thing except its getting worse and more often. While its doing its little miss and studder it pushes out a white blue color smoke, today it did it but wierdly it seemed that it was running on possibly half the cylinders? Could this be a valve cover gasket/ harness maybe? Or like a loss pcm connection?

 

Is it all on one side?

 

What the wire harness for the inectors?

 

The wiring the DIT Powerstroke's injectors and glowplugs comes from the engine wiring harness (94-97's from the IDM) to the top edge of and plugs into a connector "in" the valve cover gaskets.

On the 94-97's, there are two connectors in each valve cover gasket, handling two cylinders each. In later powerstrokes, there is one connector handling all 4 cylinders.

On the inside of the valve cover gasket, there is another connector that plugs into the injector wiring harness(es). The injector wiring harness splits out the wiring from that connector to wires leading to each glow plugs and to each injector. For the glow plugs, it is split out to power to each and a common ground. For the injector wiring, it is a power and ground for each.

For 94-97's I can check all those individual circuits from the connector at the IDM... and If I find a problem with an individual circuit, then I know were to trace that back (saving time and effort).

On 98 and later's there was two common problems with the injector harnesses. First was the design of the single, bigger connector lock, which the connector be loose and cause as open circuit. The second problem was that the wires sometime rubbed on the moving parts (pushrods or rockers) and caused a short. This was a sometime probelm with the OSB's (94-97).

Another thing that occurs, but less often, is that the injector coils sometimes fail... Sometimes being either too much resistance or too little of resistance. Being out of range will cause the injector not to fire.

The last thing electrically, is it can be used to diagnose and track down with cylinder or cylinders are not pulling their own weight. If you have the valve covers off and start it up... If you disconnect one plug from an injector, it should loss rpm when disconnected and pick back up when reconnected. If it doesn't, it probable that that cylinder has a problem. The go along with that... there is an oil deflector on the inboard side of the injector. With it running, it should have oil squirting out each injector, under each of those deflectors... and they should be consistent with each other.

Is that explained basic enough to understand?

 

Sounds like injector wiring harness to me also they go bad and oil seeps into the connectors. Ive got a 96 Powerstroke it done the same thing I limped mine home while it was missing horribly I diagnosed which one was bad by unplugging the four harnesses on the valvecover gaskets one at a time. Eventually one harness I unplugged never changed the miss I was hearing in the motor so I replaced the injector wiring harness for that side of the engine and fixed it right up.

 

Well its hard or me to believe its the injector harness as it is so intermittent but now its all the time, I'll let KT warm up for 5 mins and it will start but its intermittent it will run good for a little then do it again and so on, at the times it does it when shut off for that split second it dumps white smoke after the miss or what ever you want to call ut , like the engine is shutting down for a second then starting back up, now I discovered a little fuel leak on the for on the side of the fuel bowl, the thing that the one little red wire goes to that looks like a sensor or some thing? Could that be the culprit possibly? Or is this problem beyond a little leak?