The 4.0l and trans are out of the jeep. The engine started rite up before the pull. But I still had to tow it onto the pad. You would think that after about 5 or 6 jeep engine pulls, it would be easy. But it never really goes as planned. I don't normally pull engine and trans together, but this time I did. I almost did not have enough hoist to clear the front clip. And even after I drained the trans completely there was still quite a bit trans fluid everywhere.
So it is definitely on. tomorrow I will give the engine bay a quick pressure wash in the morning, and I hope to test fit the Kubota in the afternoon without the trans. I just want to see what it looks like in there
I don't know if I will try and stab the engine and trans together when the time comes. With out pulling the front clip there is not much room.
So that is the update.

 

It is hard to get past thinking Gas . The inline 6 Engines are darn good. My first Truck was a 1961 Chevy that I put a 250 inline 6 with a 292 head and some other goodies from Offenhouser and it was a stump puller and got good MPG of around 20+. Unless I put my foot in it .

 

Tonight I am going to try and drill the block for the dipstick and the turbo/vac pump oil return. I plan on putting the dipstick on the passenger side under the injector pump behind the oil filter. and the turbo drain on the driver side just behind the water inlet

 

It is not really a Carrier Reefer engine anymore. Removed the the flat aluminum oil pan. Drilled the block for the drivers side oil dipstick, and installed the stamped steel Bobcat oil pan. It would be very difficult to drill the passenger side for a oil dipstick. Plus I drilled a 5.5mm hole in the bottom of one of the 12mm engine mount bolt boss I hope this is enough to handle the oil drain from the turbo and the vac pump, and I hope I don't need this bolt for a motor mount.
I thought there would not be a front and rear for the new oil pan, but that is not the case. So it ended up with the drain hole facing forward. Not my first choice

 

That Oil Pan confused me as well . You are correct the drain plug went to the front. Go figure. And I thought it was just me is usual.

As for the passenger side Dip Stick Hole Gaines used one of those Long Electrical Drill bits.

 

I could have started a hole on the passenger side but I don't have a long bit that big 15/32" for my dip stick sleeve. anyway it is all over but the shouting on that. I just finish mounted, torqued and loctited, my adapter plate to the block. I came in to look up the torque spec on the flywheel bolts, and the jeep bell to trans torques.
I am still not sure what I will do for the pressure plate bolts. Shaved down nuts and long bolts, or just Loctite the correct size bolt.
I have 0.28" on a 3/8-24 bolt do you think I can hit 40ft/lbs on that?????

 

You should have no problem holding 40 ft/lbs on .28 thick. Being a fine pitch thread you have more then 4 threads to hold. As long as the tap cut nicely. What grade tap did you use?

 

I don't know what grade the tap is. I never thought about that? It was a brand new one made in Japan. It seemed to cut nicely in the cast iron..
Is there some reference to look up a spec for this sort of thing? I know the manufactures of fiberlocking nuts put out specs for how many threads protrude past the fiber to ensure locking.
It would sure be nice to not have to use nuts on the fwd face of the flywheel

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I found a formula for depth of threads. it is a long complicated formula. end result is for a 3/8-24 bolt the thread engagement should be .78" then the other formula yielded neg14
So much for books,

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Now I found a chart and for 3/8-24 minimum thread engagement should be .304" for 3/8-16 is .269".
this is a much better way to figure this out. Compared to the formula in the Machinery's handbook

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one last bit of info I found. For cast iron. thread engagement should be 1.5 x bolt Diameter.
I suppose I can try and torque the little bolts, to a little less than full torque (35ft/lbs) with red Loctite, and if it does not work I can always rotate the pressure plate a bit and re-drill and use nuts and bolts

 

If you can I would use nuts on the backside as thick as you can from the get go. If you rotate the pressure plate for more holes you are going to get the flywheel out of balance.

 

The results of the destructive testing are in. I set up a couple of tests using the ruined flywheel cover. 40 ft/lbs Wet did not make it. I did get 35 Ft/lbs wet on the second test hole.
There was a small discrepancy with the washer on the second test, So after lunch I will try again .
I am not sure I won't a have the same problem if I cut down the nuts far enough to clear the starter bendix. or how all that would work. I was originally thinking to leave the flywheel holes tapped and put the nuts on the back and torque them. Now I am thinking about maybe drilling the holes out and just using the nuts only? Or just run 30 to 35#'s with fresh red Loctite and be done with it.
All this pain in the *** for an extra 1/4" of adapter thickness that I should have used from the beginning. But at the beginning a 1/2" steel adapter seemed way overkill, and 1/2" aluminum seemed under sized.
I found another complete engine Not sure if I want to make the 250 mile drive to go look at it. I won't be able to test it. it is sold as is