I must be missing something.
You are doing destrutive tests on the flywheel COVER? The casting of the COVER will not be as strong as the FLYWHEEL. The FLYWHEEL is where you are concerned about pulling the threaded holes out, correct?
I think your test idea is super, but you need to test on a FLYWHEEL, which you don't have a junk one of.

 

I just did 4 torque tests. I got to 40# on all . I wonder what was different with the first test, maybe temperature. I think I am going to try just the regular short bolts with blue Loctite.

 

Thanks to Evenglass for helping me to remember to cut the notches in my flywheel. They came out just barely ok, I was in a battle with my rotary table pretty much the whole time. 2 of the notches are too deep, From measuring I figure the worst one is maybe 1 gram different than the others.
which brings up my question for the night. How much should it cost to have a flywheel balanced??
I hope the transmission/clutch and adapter are now finished. I had some problems with stack height and trans input shaft stickout. I needed a little flywheel relief just aft of the pilot bearing, to clear the splines on the input shaft. And the clearance from the bottom of the crank recess and the end of the trans input shaft is less than .050" . it is enough but barely. so I did not have to cut on the trans input shaft at all.
On a hopefully better note. I am going to pick up another DI Kubota tomorrow. this one comes as a engine with the compressor. I bought it sight unseen, lets hope it is a good runner

 

I put the new clutch and brake pedal in the jeep today. That was a pretty significant PIA.
I also static balanced the flywheel. I ended up with about a 12 gram light spot. I am not sure exactly how I will sort this out. trying to get all 12 grams out of one bolt position will be a bit tuff. I think I will do a combination of 5 shaved bolts and nuts, and one longer bolt.
What ever I come up with I will try and test spin the balanced flywheel on the lathe at speed and hopefully it that will point out any problems.
I could not find any shops that have a mandrel small enough to fit the center of the Kubota flywheel.

 

The engine and transmission are put together I hope for the last time. I checked the clutch operation while not running, and it seems to be working fine. Then I test ran the engine on the bench and no abnormal behavior or sounds. I think/hope I am good to go, to stab the engine in the jeep when I get home from work next month. Not much for pics now it is just a engine transmission all put together. I took the PS and AC pumps off in anticipation of stabbing it in the jeep all together

Then I pulled the starter off to work on my new engine a bit, After I saw it had no compression when I picked it up, I thought it would never run. But after a few days soaking and turning it is running very well. These little engines seem to be very tough.

 

Those flywheel notches look awesome to me....I wish I had access to tools like that, I had to do mine with a drill press and 4" grinder. I'm 100% sure those notches will work (as long as the math is right).

I sent the 700r4 flexplate and the Mercedes flexplate to Luke at 4x4 labs for match balancing. $90 for balancing $30 for shipping (Florida to Cali), no vibes at all, I'm happy.

Hijack.......It would be cool to get these diesel XJ's together sometime, maybe hit some trail and compare rigs/swaps, what state do you live in? FTE? I'm in Florida.

 

Thanks Evenglass. Here is a pic of my dropped offset CPS sensor for those notches. It is too late to balance this one unless it has a problem. I don't want to split this engine and trans again if I can help it.
I just hope I don't have as much electronics trouble with my '98 as I did with the '96. I never was able to figure out what went wrong on my '96 speedo. it worked for a few days, then quit and has not worked since, then I did not want to fix the death wobble. The '96 did not have a factory tach, but the '98 has full instruments,
On my '96 I ended up using the original TPS,CPS, but I did not get the cam position sensor. Those engine computers are a real PIA, I do the diesel swap to get rid of the computer, but you can never really get rid of them on a late model vehicles, because they run freakin everything it seems. For the Kubota I will have the crank position, I will do the cam position sort of like yours, I don't want to do a Throttle position unless I really have to. That is one of the reasons I went with the manual trans. Lord knows I would prefer a good automatic with OD and a lockup TC, but After the PIA with the AW4 I just give up on the auto's for now.
I am in South Texas with JesterGrin, FTE, Redveloce, and Rangmar are all in WA state, Usedkubotaman is in Tennessee, So we are all scattered pretty well.
Not much to report new on the Kubota today. I have to get ready for work next week. I will try and spray some light oil in both engines intakes to keep the cyl walls lubed up while I am gone. but for now I am all stop
I will be looking at every one else's updates.

OH I talked to the ceramic coater today, and I asked him if there were any issues with coating a brand new turbo. He said he would rather coat a turbo that had been brought up to full operating temp to ensure that all the manufactures oils were burned off. I thought that was interesting.

 

i need to make mine for v2203 to toyota pickup swap any tips/pointers?

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where did you buy dip stick im trying to search online and it seems to be out of stock

 

Here https://parts-barn.com/index.php/ If they are out of stock Call Sam and ask.

 

I made a new governor spring today and installed it. Sorry I did not take any pictures. On my photo tach I got up to 3050 rpm. That is not really as much as I was wanting, I would have been much happier with 3500 rpm. I will try a fresh speed test in the morning I did not want to run too much without water circulation
I backed out both the idle and high speed screws all the way. I will need a spring to get the idle low enough.
I thought if I shaved a bit off the speed control arm or the stop post I could get a little more speed control arm travel. But that will not work because the speed arm stops before it hits the stop post. So I guess I will need to find a new spring
I searched and searched for springs online and in the local stores. I found some springs online, but both places I found have minimum orders in the $40 and $70 range @ $3 a spring
The spring I used I had to cut down, it is only a few thousandths thicker wire than stock, but it is quite a bit stiffer. The effective length is 2.0", the diameter is .5", the wire thickness is .055". I would prefer a wire thickness of .067 to .075, but I think the length and diameter are correct