Some use the Volvo Intercooler. I forget which one. But I think it was UsedKubotaMan on his recent build is going to use the whole Enchilada. The Intercooler and radiator and fans.

I will have to move my Radiator back to use my Intercooler. I Picked up the same as FTE which is the Mitch Evolution Intercooler. You can see it on my thread.

I liked it over the Volvo type since it is all aluminum where as the Volvo units I have seen have plastic tanks. But also check with Rangmar as I think he has a Volvo unit and he is pushing 27 LBS Boost. Also do not get too big with an intercooler as you can cause some dramatic Turbo Lag. I know bigger always sounds better but not always.

 

I almost forgot. Well not really I still need to bore the Kubota flywheel for the pilot bearing, and I just looked and I need to make a pilot bearing stop insert for the Kubota crankshaft, to keep the pilot bearing from falling out the front side of the flywheel. The bearing has to sit inside the flywheel about .4" from the surface, and it will extend out the front of the flywheel into the crank about .090". Plus I still need to layout the clutch on the flywheel, drill and tap the pressure plate holes. Then I think I am done with the transmission mount at least I hope so. Then I have to start on the engine mounts, and I still need to finish up the accessories. The PS pump and AC comp mounts don't seem sturdy enough yet.

I am going to say this now because it has been in the back of my mind for a long time now. This may be a great conversion or not. But for my next project as I have 2 spare running jeep 4.0 engines. I am very very seriously considering taking the jeep 4.0, sleeving it down to reduce the displacement to under 3 liters, putting a girdle on the crank main bearings. Then find some pistons and rods from a diesel and converting the jeep 4.0 to approx 2.8 diesel. I did some preliminary looking, and If I can find a diesel rod that matches the stroke and the rod journal I think I will give this a try. That will eliminate all the fitment, alignment, and accessory issues with these conversions. Of course it will open up a whole new area with lots of problems I am sure.
But that is what I have been thinking about.
I will post up the pics of the finished clutch and pressure plate tonight. Against my better judgement I thinking again about using the old clutch

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There is or was one of the Volvo intercooler radiator sets at my local pick and pull. I looked at it, I guess taking the whole thing like kubotaman , might be a pretty good idea. but just pulling the intercooler alone did not look easy . and I was not overly impressed with the way the Volvo cooler looked.
I did like your intercooler jester. The other possible benefit to the Volvo is it woulb probably be easier to plumb, and it might fit easier than moving the jeep radiator and making new mounts for everything.
The problem with the pick and pull is " no returns for cash" only exchange credit. So once they have your money that is it. I am working on a cruise control for my Dakota. I have about $100 in pick and pull cruise parts that aren't working, and $200 computer that I am fighting to get my money back on from a PCM re-builder in FLA. that cruise on the Dakota has been a real pain in the *** and a big disappointment
I gotta get back out to the shop.

Jester do you have any progress on your Mazda????. We have not seen any updates from hyou in a while

 

The flywheel and pressure plate are aligned, drilled and tapped. I changed it up a bit and made alignment fixtures to take the pressure plate bolt pattern off the jeep flywheel instead of the pressure plate.

 

I'll be interested to see the results of any experiments you do with turning the 4.0 into a diesel. (There's a thread else-net where there's been some discussion of it, but there doesn't seem to be much in the way of hard information, yet. )

Other than that, looking pretty cool already!

 

I have decided to use the old clutch. The pilot bearing is installed, and the little spacer to keep the bearing from coming out the fwd end of the flywheel is almost done. I drilled and tapped the shaved down flywheel. for 3/8-24 bolts.
Now for the question. What torque to use on the pressure plate bolts. Jeep OE spec for the 6 cyl clutch is 40 ft/lbs. The SAE spec on the grade 8 bolts is also 40 ft/lbs. BUT I am not sure as I only have about .27 " of meat to screw into on the shaved down flywheel if I can use full torque???
The bolts are only .5" long grade 8; 3/8ths fine thread. And Yes I plan on using locktite.
Not really sure if I want to mount the engine to the trans just yet.
I still need to drill the engine block for the oil dipstick and turbo oil supply and drain, and put on the new oil pan. So I as originally planning on putting the engine block on a stand and turning it upside down to do all the mods and drilling.
I saw that I think Redveloce drilled and tapped his block for turbo Oil supply . I was thinking to try and get oil pressure from one of the accessory plugged holes in the oil pump housing where the oil pressure sender installs.
How big are all the other Kubotas turbo oil drain lines, Is 1/8th pipe big enough???
the hole in the bottom of the turbo center section draining the actual turbo is about .5"

 

If you have room you can use a grade 8 Nut on the backside for the pressure plate.

 

ester I tried the flex plate with nuts on the bolts. I can use nuts but I will have to shave the bolt ends and nuts down quite a bit to clear the starter bendix when the starter is engaged. I am going to leave the trans off the engine for a bit.
Tomorrow I will start in on the good jeep with the blown transmission that the Kubota will end up in. I want to do a quick test fit to see if I can use the Carrier oil pan.
The pic is of the little plug I needed to keep the pilot bearing from falling out the front side of the flywheel.

 

I just finished reading your build thread. As I was reading, I was hoping you saw my postings on usedkubotaman's build thread. I see you posted there. so all is good.
Keep up the good work! I wasn't sure how everyone was building the adapter plates. After reading your posts and studying your photos, it has become clear. Thanks!

I have been shopping, but have not made any purchases yet.

 

HI Hunkajunk, Thanks for your comments. I had the same questions about adapters when I started this build. I wanted to try and really document the alignment and adapter process for this build. It is probably boring and long winded for some. But I still wanted to try and get a pretty good explanation of this part of a conversion.
Lots of thanks to the guys on this forum that helped educate me on the adapter process, I did not learn it all on my own.
My first build was a MB into a jeep. I used a store bought adapter. For me that took some of the fun? out of it, This was my first try at aligning and fabbing my own adapter. We will see how it turns out.
The good recipient jeep is on the pad now and I am getting the engine and AW4 auto pulled . It is a pretty nice jeep, I was daily driving it for over a year, and I did a tiny little park drop while I was talking to a friend, the jeep was not stopped all the way, and barely rolling. I did not think anything of it, I have done worse in the past. Well about 3 days later, the trans started to make loud growling noise then stopped working for a bit, then I was able to limp it home on its own power, I pulled the trans pan and there was a tiny bit of metal and 3 little roller bearings enough said about my poor AW4, may it rest in peace. Hopefully this jeep will have a glorious re-birth as a little turbo diesel. With out a transmission the 2wd XJ's are barely worth scrap price
Ok hopefully I will have the engine and trans out late this evening

 

I know the crunched automatic blues too. I built a nice 32 Ford 3 window highboy. I put a healthy SBC in it with a fresh 700R4. I drove it 200 miles to a show. After I parked it wouldn't go. I called home for a trailer.. Trashed tranny. I got it rebuilt. Same builder, just paid for parts. I drove it 400 miles to a show... It acted funny when I parked..then it wouldn't go again. Called home again for a trailer. Back to the same builder. He swore I was driving down the highway and put it into reverse. Totally destroyed... He had the converter cut open. All on me... I had installed the converter with slightly longer bolts. They had pushed into the shell breaking the lockup clutch. That clutch material had made it's way into the valve body. The rest as they say is history. He supplied the new bolts when I picked up the again rebuilt tranny. Still just a bill for parts. I think I owe him a build or 2. It ran great then...