A pretty big set back today. I thought I was lucky and I would not have to cut down the Kubota flywheel diameter. Well Yes I don't have to do that. But by the time I shave the flywheel down for thickness, I will lose the lip of the flywheel, and then I will not have anything left to bolt the pressure plate too. OOPS> I just assumed I would have a similar clutch to the others being used.
long story short, I either need to make a extra or new trans adapter/ spacer and add about .3" to my stack height to leave me enough lip on the Kub flywheel to bolt the pressure plate too.
Or as FTE suggested try and find a different clutch that will fit and be a smaller diameter.

I am looking for a 9" clutch that has a 10 tooth spline with the 1.125 input shaft diameter. So far no luck. If anyone has any leads on how to find or source a clutch that fits the above dimensions I am eager to learn. Not much luck searching the standard parts stores yet. the Ranger and S10 clutches have different spline counts and diameters

The 6 cyl jeep stock clutch has the dimesions below
10.4" diameter
10 tooth spline
1.125 input shaft dia.

 

I would make a spacer not only to be able to use your pressure plate and clutch but to also retain some flywheel weight.

 

Hi Jester, Nice to hear from you. My first thought was to make a spacer, approx. .3" Then I realized I would have to extend the hollow dowels, and I began to worry about alignment. Lots of thoughts on how to go, but all have drawbacks. A new adapter plate would probably be best but a lot of work. Spacers and new hollow dowels are looking pretty good. FTE originally brought up the new clutch idea, then brought up the ease of both fixes ( spacers, or new clutch). I needed / wanted to use a new clutch for the build anyway. So I started looking for a clutch. I found one from Summit Racing. approx. same price as jeep clutch, I just need to verify the dimensions and throw details.
Yes If I go with the spacers I won't have to cut as much from the flywheel. I still need to get approx. .25" off to get rid of the flywheel lip.
I need to get back out to the shop and think about it for a bit.

If I make new hollow dowels, what do you all think I need for wall thickness. the OE hollow dowels are very thin walled and they are slit

ONe step forward 1 step back

 

Try Cutch Masters..

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Try Clutch Masters..

 

Thanks Kabanger, I think I found a clutch kit that will fit from Summit racing. it is actually a little cheaper than the OE jeep clutch. the specs match what I need, I just need to confirm the diameter of the bolt pattern of the pressure plate, and the amount that it will throw. Then I guess I would hope that I can use one of the throw out bearings. I think thin original application is from a Vega
the part # is ZOOM part # MU1860-1b also I found it at oreilly's

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I went over my math for the flywheel cut down again. I made a math mistake originally which might save my bacon on the clutch, and let me use what I have with just adding the .1" aluminum spacer plate that is OE equipment on the Jeep.
So here is my math again
Jeep clutch side of flywheel to jeep block. 1.555"
unmodified Kubota clutch side of flywheel to block 2.850"
adapter thickness .875

Kubota 2.850- jeep 1.555= 1.295 this is the adapter and shave amount
adapter and shave 1.295 - adapter .875= .42" flywheel shave

.42 flywheel shave - .1 aluminum jeep shim = .32 finished flywheel shave.

The large diameter lip on the Kubota flywheel is .605" thick - .32"= .285" this is the amount of large diameter flywheel I will have left to bolt my Jeep OE clutch too.

Does that look correct this time?

 

glad you found a clutch i was looking at vega /Monza or pinto /mousetang late 70s mid 80s

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math looks right but I have cheap measuring tools

 

The adapter bolt heads are shaved, and The flywheel is cut down and spins free. I cut the minimum I could off the clutch side; to get a flat surface, I had to go an extra .010" past to get as flat as I got. The flywheel is running nice and flat. the lip is .275 thick, I think/hope this will be thick enough to mount the clutch too. I guess time will tell.
An extra 1/8th on the adapter would have helped keep the meat on the flywheel. I did not want to make a new plate. For future reference, using the AX15 a 1/2" adapter would be better than the 3/8ths.
Tomorrow hope to index and mount the pressure plate, and that should finish the engine to transmission assembly. I will not forget the locktite this time
As it sits now the flywheel appears to be less than .020" too thick taking into account the aluminum shim that came out of the OE jeep transmission. I think that will be pretty good.
Also the original flywheel weighed 40.8#'s After the cut down it weighs 34#, I think that will be ok as well.

Does anyone have a line on a nice big intercooler with inlet and outlet on opposite sides?

This way I get to use the OE jeep clutch, which is a lot easier than trying to find a 9" clutch that would work.

 

excellent I guess this is Kubota **** my flywheel looks different mine has a big lip on the gear side ( I better check and see if it fits my crank)

 

Man that looks good! Glad to see you figured it out.

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About the intercooler, I'm thinking you will be limited to the largest I/c you can fit between the core support and grill. I was thinking you could move the radiator back and then use the space for the I/c. I know that was one of my concerns when I had an XJ.

 

Yes I already plan on moving the radiator back to get a nice big IC