No biggie, everybody missing things now and then.

There's no pump in the tank, it's on the drivers side frame rail pretty much right under the drivers seat.

If you've lost prime, then it won't run without a lift pump to reprime the line up to the IP.

This is a 94 right?

There's a couple things it could be;

1. lift pump has failed
2. Oil pressure switch (OPS) is burnt out.

You can power the pump directly and see if it runs. If it does, your problem is the OPS. You can still have gauge indication with a bad OPS. The contacts that run the lift pump are separate in the OPS.

You need to get the lift pump running to prime the filter manager. Prime it until you get a decent flow of fuel from the air bleed on the top. Slip a piece of clear hose over the bleed so you can pump it into a small jar or container. A couple pints would probably do it.

Once you've got the filter manager primed, you need to crank the engine with the injector nuts loosened to prime to the injectors.

Once primed to the injectors, it should run. It will run rough for 30 seconds or so while it purges the remaining air and then should run normally (i just got deja vue)....

 

Haha okay will do tomorrow and how do u find this fourm on that app you use on yor iPhone?

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Question, you sure there's no pump in tank once again the retard before me had cut a hole in the bed to get to the tank

 

yup.

Probably cut the hole to get to the fuel sending unit or the strainer sock on the end of the pickup.

I just searched on tapatalk and there it was...

 

My question is why is fuel coming out of the filter prime of my lift pump is bad

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Pump works now wht

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How would the oil pressure switch not working let no fuel in

 

Ok, I think we're all turned around again. You have said there is no fuel coming out and that there is fuel coming out. Which is it? If you have a good steady flow of fuel, the lift pump is working.

Umm, what?
The lift pump is powered though contacts in the ops. They are undersized and known to fail from the current draw. The contacts are normally open and close when there's oil pressure. This is done as a safety feature to turn the lift pump off in case of an accident.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

But the pump runs without directly wireing it to a battery it runs like its supposed to

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Could That sock in the tank be clogged. And the lift pump will not work if the OPS is burnt out? Cause my pump is working

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I need to prime everything

 

I think this is part of the whole troubleshooting a vehicle over the internet thing.

You've already said the PO had "cut a hole" above the tank.

There's probably been lots of other "jackassing" around with the vehicle.

Wiring is usually the first thing subjected to "jackassing". Backyard wrenches always think they have a better way than the engineers who built it. I'm not talking about adding a relay to shunt high power loads, I'm talking about reworking the circuit and power feeds (IE: wire pump directly to battery).

Regardless, if the damned pump runs you can stop thinking about it other than the comments I make below about psi and flow.....stop chasing your bloody tail.....

Already discussed in this thread. Check it if you haven't already (I'm thinking you haven't).

If the PO has a hole cut in the bed above the sender, it should be relatively easy as you don't even have to remove the tank.

In fact, they may have had sock problems and replaced/removed it. They may have also been in there for the fuel sender or rusted out lines. No way to tell without getting in there...

A clogged (or clogging) sock can cause all kinds of problems that will make you scratch your head.

You need to stop talking about it, get out the wrenches and go do it....

In a truck with STOCK wiring, yes. Bad OPS means no power to the lift pump. See above "jackassing" comments.....

Again, see above "jackassing" comments.....regardless, if the pump is giving a nice steady flow of fuel and will put out 4-8 psi while pumping about 1-2 pints in a minute, you can forget it and move on. It's not your problem.....


That sounds familiar.....


Read back through the thread. Make a list of things you need to check. Make it a logical sequence from the tank up to the IP.

You're bouncing all over the place. This will leave you with a a non running truck and a very frustrated attitude. Troubleshooting is a very systematic process and you're not doing it right.

Start where the fuel starts (tank) and systematically work your way up to the IP.

Fuel cap, tank, fuel contamination or gelling, tank sock, lines for pinholes or collapsed/pinched points, lift pump (psi and flow checks), filter manager filter, filter manager "last chance" screen, confirm fuel in IP, IP inlet screen, confirm primed up to the IP.

You've said you've done most of this already, but it's been done very "piecemeal". That's how you miss problems. Start over again, check it all and do it in order.

It's very important that you start again from the beginning and in strict order as you've had things apart and have messed with everything. You need to confirm everything you've touched from the tank on up to the IP is done and checked correctly.

Once you're at the pump after this process and you haven't found the problem, you're MAY have an IP failure on your hands or something else deeper in the engine (IE: drive pin, IP gear, etc)....

Once you're got all that done, let us know where you are.

Running engine or DOA.

Short of buying a plane ticket and showing up in your driveway with my rollaround, there's not much else I can do for you other than what's been posted here.......

 

Well I'm from Ohio ha I will actually get to work on the truck after work today

 

Ohio is a little too far away, even for my "work truck":

 

Nahhhh there's a little runway come on down they'll let you land