1994 6.5 Wont start
#1
1994 6.5 Wont start
Okay so truck was runnin great I turned the truj off started my
Work weeks didn't drive the truck for 3 days. Went to start the truck it cranks and cranks but seems like its not getting fuel I can't hear the left pump when keys on I don't know if it's the pdm if it's the pump? Ether is bad but hey it didn't work either
Work weeks didn't drive the truck for 3 days. Went to start the truck it cranks and cranks but seems like its not getting fuel I can't hear the left pump when keys on I don't know if it's the pdm if it's the pump? Ether is bad but hey it didn't work either
#5
#7
If I open that cap and start cranking will tat bleed the air out of the fuel system?
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Fuel came out of the filter when I opened the cap
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There is a bolt missing out of the top of the intake manifold could that make it not start
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Fuel came out of the filter when I opened the cap
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There is a bolt missing out of the top of the intake manifold could that make it not start
Last edited by EvanBoothe; 03-07-2012 at 12:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#8
no. if fuel came out of the filter when you did that, the lift pump works.
bleed it like that.
if it gets to the cap, close it, crank the truck see if it starts. if not:
crack the easiest injector line you can get to with a 3/4 wrench, see if fuel comes out.
if not, most likely a PMD
IF IT STARTS, and runs like crap,you may have a leak.
put a fuel pressure tester on it you should be getting 12psi at idle
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sorry, that WILL bleed air out of the system.
i was saying no to the intake bolt
bleed it like that.
if it gets to the cap, close it, crank the truck see if it starts. if not:
crack the easiest injector line you can get to with a 3/4 wrench, see if fuel comes out.
if not, most likely a PMD
IF IT STARTS, and runs like crap,you may have a leak.
put a fuel pressure tester on it you should be getting 12psi at idle
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sorry, that WILL bleed air out of the system.
i was saying no to the intake bolt
Last edited by ebarresi5894; 03-07-2012 at 05:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#9
Okay one question were is the pmd on my 1994? I looked on the pump now wires running from the pump besides 2 res wires on the top of the lump to open the pump an whatever the other one does
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The person that had it before me messed with the wireing on the pump and there's only two wireing coming off the pump
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The person that had it before me messed with the wireing on the pump and there's only two wireing coming off the pump
Last edited by EvanBoothe; 03-07-2012 at 06:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#10
So, you're saying you sprayed ether into the intake and it still didn't start?
That's a problem of a different color.
See, a diesel engine will run as long as air and fuel are present.
If it's "sucking" on the intake stroke it's got air. These engines will run with no intake manifold installed at all (won't run right, but it will run) so that's not an issue.
If you add ether it has fuel, so the entire truck fuel system doesn't matter at that point.
It should at least kick.
To me, that is more consistent with a catastrophic failure. But that doesn't jive with it running fine and just failing to start after it being shut down.
I'm going to guess the ether not working was a just not enough in the intake. I'm not saying for you to try it again, just that it didn't work (don't try it again, please!)
So, lets examine what could cause it not to run after shutting it down:
Normally, it's a no fuel condition if it won't even light off after extended cranking.
No air is pretty much and impossibility on these as even a failed piston crown will at least have 7 more cylinders that will still at least run.
So this could be a PMD gone south or the fuel shut off solenoid not opening.
Try loosening a fuel injector line at the injector. Crank the engine. If you get no fuel, you can suspect those things mentioned above.
You can eliminate the Fuel shut off solenoid by removing it and then taking the pintle off the end of the actuator rod and screwing it back in to the IP. This allows free flow of fuel at all times. If it starts, the solenoid is bad. Replace it as soon as you can, the solenoid is a positive shut off device in the event of power loss.
Unfortunately, the only real way to trouble shoot the PMD is to replace it. It's an expensive way to trouble shoot. If you happen to have a spare, try it out. Everyone who drives a 6.5 should have a spare in the glove box anyways.
Before you do any of this, make sure you pull the trouble codes before you start taking things apart and post up what you find. A code may direct you to the problem right off (like a bad CPS)....
That's a problem of a different color.
See, a diesel engine will run as long as air and fuel are present.
If it's "sucking" on the intake stroke it's got air. These engines will run with no intake manifold installed at all (won't run right, but it will run) so that's not an issue.
If you add ether it has fuel, so the entire truck fuel system doesn't matter at that point.
It should at least kick.
To me, that is more consistent with a catastrophic failure. But that doesn't jive with it running fine and just failing to start after it being shut down.
I'm going to guess the ether not working was a just not enough in the intake. I'm not saying for you to try it again, just that it didn't work (don't try it again, please!)
So, lets examine what could cause it not to run after shutting it down:
Normally, it's a no fuel condition if it won't even light off after extended cranking.
No air is pretty much and impossibility on these as even a failed piston crown will at least have 7 more cylinders that will still at least run.
So this could be a PMD gone south or the fuel shut off solenoid not opening.
Try loosening a fuel injector line at the injector. Crank the engine. If you get no fuel, you can suspect those things mentioned above.
You can eliminate the Fuel shut off solenoid by removing it and then taking the pintle off the end of the actuator rod and screwing it back in to the IP. This allows free flow of fuel at all times. If it starts, the solenoid is bad. Replace it as soon as you can, the solenoid is a positive shut off device in the event of power loss.
Unfortunately, the only real way to trouble shoot the PMD is to replace it. It's an expensive way to trouble shoot. If you happen to have a spare, try it out. Everyone who drives a 6.5 should have a spare in the glove box anyways.
Before you do any of this, make sure you pull the trouble codes before you start taking things apart and post up what you find. A code may direct you to the problem right off (like a bad CPS)....
Last edited by great white; 03-07-2012 at 07:24 PM.