That means tank sock, lift pump or filter.....but it could also be something weird like a rusted hard line with a pin hole allowing air to break the prime.....

x2 like i said before

 

And how do I prime the system and after I check all this I'll let u all know

 

Turn the lift pump on (key on, crank engine if needed to trigger OPS), open the air bleed on the filter manager (black plastic hoobie thing on top of filter). Once fuel shoots out the top, you're adequately primed to the filter manager.

Remember, you have to find out why you only have "little spurts" coming out of the line first or you're just right back where you started. I can't remember the flow rate for the LP off the top of my head, but it's something like 5-10 gpm free flow (IE: open air bleed)....that's a lot of fuel, not just a "spurt".

GM rates it in Psi with around 4 psi at idle acceptable and somewhere around 8 psi static. You can measure this by putting a low pressure gauge on the water drain valve tubing and opening the valve. Don't let this side track you though, the engine will run with nearly "0" psi. Just not as well as it will with a good feed....

 

The line on the front of the pump should have a constant flow coming out right

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Didn't mean to put that *** showing smiley

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I opened the t valve and the bleeder on tge filter and they both push out lots of fuel I don't get why once it hits the pump it doesn go through to the injectors something before like right before the pump or something in the pump has to be blocking the fuel unless I'm not understanding here

 

We're going around in circles now....

Make sure there's fuel right at the IP "in" fitting. Pull the hose off if you have too.

Once that's confirmed, the problem is in the IP itself.

You can pull the top cover off and confirm the housing is full of fuel.

It should be if you have fuel at the inlet fitting.

If it is, it's the shut off solenoid (or it's wiring), the drive pin has sheared (unlikely) or the IP has failed internally (unlikely from your original description, but it happens).

Like I said, if you're got fuel in the housing and it's not starting or pumping with a mechanical DB2, the failure is most likely in the pump itself....

 

What does the drive pin do. I turned the pump up 1/4 turn a month ago.

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Also can anyone help me find a shut off solenoid for the db2

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Nevermind I found one on eBay for 70 bucks

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And one last thing after I check every single peice of my fuel system what's the easiest way to check that solonoid

 

There's a gear under the front cover that drives the IP. The "drive pin" is what connects the IP to the gear and that is what rotates teh internal components of the IP.

If the drive pin shears, the Ip does not turn and does not pump fuel....

 

If its sheared will I be able to tell when I take the cover off? I'm going to get some pics and videos up soon here I'm getting tired of it not starting

 

Nope, IP has to come off.

That's not so easy on a db2.

getting it off is not harder than a DS4 but getting it timed again when it's back on is a bit more difficult as it's "done by ear".

I'd just scribe the positon before I took it off if it were me.

Keep in mind: it's VERY unlikely the drive pin has sheared.

I wish I could lay hands on this thing, very frustrating across the 'net....

 

Well I'm thinking I'm an idiot cause I turned the key on and hear no fuel pump seems to me there's no fuel coming from tank I didn't really look at that because the filter bubbles when I open the bleeder ... Would it still be bleeding even if the tank pump Isent working ? I took IP cover off its full of fuel I cleaned all the terminals and everything. There's no fuel coming from tank sorry I am just realizing this