Then the scary part comes when they decide to try it one day with the wrong tires. That's what prompted me to sell the BFG's on stock rims that were on the 1st Gen when I bought it to a local guy after they were only about halfway worn out. I took it get a load of gravel for the first time one day and the drive home was to say the least "interesting" on those D-range BFGs.

 

I was told at Discount Tire to run 80 PSI in the rears and 70 PSI in the front. I have E rated 265 BFG AT/KO's.

 

I run my E-Rated BFG's at max PSI all of the time. The ride isn't much different than running them a 55 psi and I'm getting a bit better MPG, so what the hell. I wish I didn't need an E-Rated tire but I tow a bumper pull car hauler with a pintle (no weight dist or anti-sway hitch) that weigh just under 10k loaded with my Cruiser. I don't know, maybe Tiremann will tell me that D-rated will be just fine and make me a happy man. E-rated 35x12.50R17's (315/70R17's) are hard to find and spendy!

 

Well if you knew your rear axle weight loaded and devided it by 2 then you could determine the load rating per tire you HAVE to have. In your case towing 10k I would want the E rated just for the extra air pressure to minimize sway. Not sure but if you could run 16's on your 3rd gen but if you coul it would reduce your wallet pain a little

 

A 16.5" wheel won't fit on a 3rd gen Dodge! They made the brakes larger on them and that is why they have to use 17" wheels. But having the larger brakes is worth the extra expense in my opinion.

(I guess tire prices are driven off of volume / demand? Sure can't be off of materials used since the larger wheels actually use less rubber than comparable smaller wheel sizes. . .)

 

I kinda figured you couldn't put 16's on, I wouldn't recomend 16.5's anyways because you cant get tires for them any more. You're exactly right too the more people buyin somthing the higher they price it. Tire prices are rediculous no more can you put 4 tires on for under 400, us pickup guys don't have it so bad though I've Installed loader tires that were over $50k for 4 tires

 

I have the factory Michellen Ltx on the truck that are E rated. When they wear out I am
going to go down to a D rated tire as I know I dont need the E and my old Nitto D tires has no squat in them and no sway when towing. The only thing I tow is my toyhauler and the tounge weight is only 650 and has W/D hitch and loaded the toyhauler is about 8500. I have had problems with Discount telling me that I had to run a E rated tire on the truck because it was 2500 which is bull! I was wondering about the lower tire psi because I read a couple different places that with low psi the sides can seperate due to extra heat build up. Thanks for all the insight and responces !!

 

If you follow the load and inflation tables available from whatever brand of tire you purchase you'll have no problems with your sidewalls, however when haulin the camper run them at max psi to minimize sway would by my recommendation