isnt the afc arm wat hits the fuel plate?

 

the gov arm hits the afc arm then after the afc arm gets out of the way the gov arm hits the fuel plate.

12valvetater what about a sat or a sunday?

 

if you cut the AFC arm off then changing the springs and messing with the spring pre-load isnt going to do jack... the rod that holds the AFC on is also an eccentric; if the AFC arm is rubbing the fuel plate turning the tab on the outside of the AFC will help to center the AFC arm in the cut groove that is provided within the fuel plate for proper function. as others have said; gut the AFC and then run the truck... see if you notice that your low end problem disappears... be warned that the fuel plate itself will control your low end- no boost fueling so there will be PLENTY of smoke. other than that' AFC tuning is pretty straight forward... the screw that is covered by the tin cap on the back side of the AFC is your smoke screw; this sets where the arm starts to function (screw it in; it opens up the gap between the governor arm and AFC arm resulting in more pre-boost fueling) the star wheel changes spring tension and how much boost pressure it actually takes to make the AFC arm inoperable. screwing the wheel in so that it is closer to the radiator reduces spring load and therefore it takes less boost to push AFC arm into its in-operable position resulting in more fuel sooner and allowing your fuel plate to determine your torque curve