Was looking at the afc, cranked the star wheel, hardly got any smoke. Took off the intake horn and I can't get any extensions to get down to the tamper proof screw. Do you guys take off the fuel lines going to the barrels and move them to get to the afc housing or is there an easier trick?

 

Use a hand impact tool with a 6 inch long 1/4" extension and a T15 TORX bit to remove this screw. A center punch may be required to start a hole in the center of this screw. Set the hand impact tool in the removal position (counter clockwise) and use light hammer taps on the impact tool to loosen this screw. Tap progressively harder on the impact tool until the screw loosens. This method of removal forms a TORX shape into the screw allowing it to be reinstalled later with the T15 TORX bit. In some cases the hole in the top of this screw is too large for the T15 bit thus use the T20 TORX bit. There is usually a lock washer and flat washer under each of these screws. OPTIONAL: A sharp chisel can be used to remove the break off screw by making a notch in the outside diameter of the head, then applying a tangential force with light blows to the chisel counterclockwise to remove the screw.

 

Yes sir, I've read all the thread info on how to do everything, I'm not worried about the tamper proof screw, my question is -
I cannot get an extension to the tamper proof screw because the fuel lines are in the way. Do you guys take them off and move them to access it or is there a trick where I don't have to take off the lines? If I have to remove the lines- are they pressurized when it's off and do I have to do anything special when I put em back on?

Also-
Are there fuel primers you can press to prime the system? If so where is it located? Thanks

 

You should not need to remove the lines, although it has been a while dealing with a tamper proof screw!
Iirc as long as you use 1/4" drive you can get in there. If that is not the case then the lines will need to be removed. No worries, no pressure when not running, just take them off.
When you put them back on tighten all of them. Crack as many loose as you can get on (injector side) crank it over until you get fuel shooting out, not air. Tighten them down and fire it up

There is a primer, but it will not help post injection pump

 

When you say injector side, you mean the very bottom going into the pump?

Where is the primer for future reference?

And I've read a few things about guys clamping or blocking the Wastegate line, is it safe for a little while?

Thanks again sir

 

Injector side, not fuel pump side.
When you pull the afc look around down there and you will see the primer

Blocking a wg is a touchy subject for me. I am not a fan. But plenty of people do it.
Imo waste gates are very important

 

if you take the injector line clamp off and take loose the back two lines you can get to the bolts easily. the lines can be lifted and laid on top of the other lines

 

also i don't think you will have to reprime it. these trucks will start on just a few cylinders and it should push any air out.

 

properly pop tested and set injectors will not push their own air out, to my knowledge. they will compress the air in the system continuously, and the air will not get to a high enough pressure to cycle the injectors.

 

Slim is correct, needs 3 lines to be bled to start, it will get the air out if the rpms are up enough, just not enough at cranking