i wouldn't go with stock. south bend makes kits for every power level. the stock discs tend to throw the dampaning springs withs results in clutch failure. but if the clutch is holding fine fight now. i wouldn't worry about it. also. get the upgraded clutch fork and pivot. the old forks are pretty weak and can and will break.

 

So the only thing you would need to plug is the red wire?
So on the waste gate where the red vacuum wire used to be plugged into you just leave it uncapped now??
Sounds like I will be pulling it off this week to try out?
Are there any downsides in doing this?

 

it's a red hose that goes to the WG actuator. disconnect and put a screw in it. i tried this on mine and i dodn't notice anything. it almost ran worse.

 

I took my waste gate off measure the length of the rod. cut it and welded new threaded collar on the end of the shaft. threaded the factory end that connects to turbo and a jamb nut back on. I also used compressor regulator on map sensor hose flow tested to 21 psi so as not to throw ses light and defuel engine. Disconnected red line and stuck on bolt to seal vacuum. Kept tightening waste gate till it would hold 30 psi. I have let it run past 30 psi a few times for short bursts. probably not good for it beyond 25.

 

so, the WG will not open if you disconnected the pressure line.... is the boost pressure still acurate at lower levels with the regulator? i don't really want to spend 60 bucks on a regulator.

 

map sensor reads accurately from 0 to the set pressure. regulator lets air past but only up to desired pressure. I bought mine at tractor supply for around 20 bucks. There are pre made setups you can buy for 60 bucks. I am cheap and impatient so I made my own. Waste gate would stayed closed longer with line unhooked but mine would still open around 24 psi.

 

so this wont hurt anything at all? I really want to try this but i really dont want to screw anything up!

 

that's what i mean. i don't want to spend 60 bucks on a engineered regulator. i'll have to look into it. so when you were adjusting the rod, did you just take test drives and see what it would go to and adjust from there? was there not enough adjustment with the rod in stock form?

 

I have read 25 psi is a safe maximum. There may be enough adjustment in stock for it but mine broke when I tried to turn it. Didnt force it that hard just isnt tough metal. Maybe just disconnecting the line is enough on your truck. Seems the trucks vary alot. I adjusted it and drove to work a few days then would adjust till it would hold. Mine has been like this for 30k miles and all is fine but cant say for certain it is 100% safe. Without the chip turned up it wont push much past 20 psi.

 

well i disconnected the red hose and i was lucky to hit 14 at WOT. right now, with a full load on the engine i hit 21. i'm guessing that's the defuel point with mine. i have a POS electonic boost fooler thing right now and it doesn't do a thing. i thought around 35 was the safe maximum?

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You can run around 40psi on the average 7.3