Im looking at a 2001 powerstroke 7.3 extended cab short bed in great condition. it has 135,000 miles on it i started it it seemed to hesitate just for a sec then started right up no white smoke. and the olny leak i was seemed to be coming off the oil drain plug. i figured needs new washer. but im going to go test drive it tonight or tommorrow. is there anything i should look for that would be specific to the truck and year other then normal stuff? do yall think the price is good?

 

Don't look where they parked the truck, look on the driveway and see if you find a large oil spot denoting the pan is leaking, which frankly is fairly common. Could help you negotiate a lower price. Many people here have trucks that mark their territory.

Good question, what's the price?

 

I just bought me an 01 crew cab with 127,000 miles on it in perfect shape and it is a lariat.... got it at a used car lot for 14,999.00 which is a little high to me.... but its got no leaks under it at all... I have so far changed out the unit bearing on the drivers side, a ujoint and the driveline bearing is my next change out.... look on the back side of the hubs where the u joint goes into the hub and see if there any space around the seal... if there is your going to be replacing the unit bearing soon... and they are not cheap...

 

ok thanks its at a used dealer but its parked on gravel so idk if i would be able to see a spot but ill go back and look under it better and see id i can see for sure where its leaking from. and ok thank ill check how much would is the bearing? and the oil gasket so i can figure in labor which is like 70 or 80 an hour here. but i could do both those myself but just so i can get the price down more.
but thanks yall

 

If the pan has a pinhole rust hole then you could try epoxying over it. previous owner had my pan painted by the dealer with some epoxy paint (POR15 maybe) and apparently it needs to be done again. The proper way to fix it would be to replace the pan, which some say they have gotten out (doubtful, but maybe) and back in with the motor mounted right in the truck, but most would say you have to take the motor out, turn it over, and put a new pan and gasket on it.

If your right and all it needs is a plug gasket, they're only like $3.

The bearing he referenced is between 150 and 250. You should probably just pull it all apart as long as your in there, so seals should be factored in at least at around $60 (I think I paid like 45 for the one big one on the knuckle and maybe 10 or 15 for the axle tube side) u-joints are like 20 a side, 65 a rotor, 30 for pads, 55 a caliper if its bad, and dump the stock air operated hubs and get some warn, superwinch, or mile marker hubs, about 120-150 for a set.

 

My bearing cost me $325 and the seals where like 45 dollars for both but I got them at a very good discount from the ford stealership from a friend....

There is a special tool you need to put the big seal on and then to install it back into the knuckle... lucky for me the guys at the ford stealership allowed me to take it home and use it to install back into the knuckle...

 

ok thanks guys so the knuckle i wouldnt be able to do at home cuz i dont have the tool im sure , but i have a friend that knows some people so i might be able to getit done cheap and get the parts cheap cuz i have a friend at the a dealership. The oil pan if i can find the hole if there is one i have a friend that can weld it, in his welding class. so im trying to estimate high so im guessing around $1000 if all that needs done?

 

so went and looked at again today but didnt drive it cuz they closed early *** holes but anyways looked like no bearing problems and the oil leak is from the oil drain plug. but it looks like some oil came off the oil filter and idk if they've done an oil change and its from when they primed the filter?
and the truck has been at the used car lot for 2 1/2 months so im kinda thinking there is something wrong that im not seeing?