How much are you willing to spend on a scanner? Do you have a labtop you could put some software on? Autoenginuity with the enhanced Ford bundle is about $350 and it will outperform any scanner you're going to buy at the local auto parts store. It can do a lot of things on our trucks, including cylinder contribution tests, injector buzz tests and so on. Very powerful tool.

Did this truck run before the oil and filter change? What oil/filters were used?

Have you tried testing the FICM now that you have new batteries? That's where I would start before even buying the scanner.

Are you getting any smoke out the exhaust at all while cranking it? It's possible you've developed a high pressure oil leak, or the HPOP itself died.

Test the FICM, let us know what you get. Let us know about the smoke and we can go from there.

 

Not sure on the scanner. Sounds like a good one i will check into it. This is my work truck so I am a little slow getting things done, between work and all. I will check out that scanner and others.
Yes it did run. After the fuel filters both motor craft. It idled better, didn't have full power. But i could get it around the block. The oil filter was motor-craft as well.
I have not tested the ficm yet.
Yes i am getting smoke out the exhaust when cranking.

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Ok before I went to get scanner. I tried to start it. Took about two minutes. But it finally fired up. Pedal response is a little of. But it revs in neutral and is idling pretty good. Put it in drive and no response from pedal. I left it idling for about ten minutes and then put in drive. Now it goes although pedal response is slow. Can get up to 40 probably more if I try. But still not perfect. I have to feathe the pedal to get it to shift. Also shifts A little hard. Any thoughts before I get the scanner. Also no check engine light.

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No smoke either when idleing or driving

 

Smoke coming out when cranking tells me that it's not really a FICM issue, but they're easy enough to test I would recommend it just for the peace of mind.

Has the EGR valve ever been out and cleaned on this thing? Turbo boosting up like normal?

 

Ok here go the codes

P 0265 cylinder 2 injector-circuit high
P 0268 number 3*injector-circuit high
P 0274 number 5*injector-circuit high
P 0283 number 8*injector-circuit high

P 0265
P 0268
P 0274
P 0283

 

multiple injector codes somtimes are do to a ficm problem, did you check it yet?

 

Tomorrow morning I will check the voltage. I saw the video on testing either 4 or 7 terminals. I was looking at mine and I don't really see the window to remove. Not 100 percent just took a quick look. Still have to remove the coolant resiviour

 

if you remove the coolant resiviour you should be able to see the window

 

Got out my voltage tester and will check in the am

 

Yep, un-do the two 8mm bolts that hold the coolant bottle. Pull it out of the way. Don't drain any coolant and don't undo lines, you can wrestle it up and out of the way a bit, which provides perfect access to the FICM. Once you see it, you'll see the little metal cover held on with 2 torx bits. Pull those and see if you have a 4 pin or a 7 pin. To test a 4 pin, test the pin closest to the drivers side fender. Put red on that, black goes to negative terminal on the battery. For a 7 pin, you need to find the row with 4 pins and test the pin FURTHEST from the drivers side fender. Same thing, red to that pin, black to negative battery terminal. If it's bad, let me know, I've got spare FICM's sitting here ready to go and can arrange a swap with your bad one.

 

Ok tested the ficm. With key on not running 46 volts. With truck running 48volts. Tested it 3 times. Only one time for a second with on position 39 volts but then spiked to 48. Even when put it gear stayed at 46 volts. Also kind of rough start but leveled of when truck ran. It seems to be idleing good once warm with decent pedal response. It when driving power is not full. Slow pedal response from a stop. Also kinda hard shifts. I have to feather the pedal to make it shift. now what please help.