Kubota Ranger
#41
Update: I finally got the clutch bled went through a couple bottles of fluid and hours of standing on my head in the engine bay trying to pump more air out because I had to take the master cylinder right off the firewall and flip it upside down. So I went for a quick rip and everything is working fine. I hooked up my throttle, I have a pretty slick setup for that. The pedal isn't stiff like some other people complain of when doing these swaps. I've hooked up power steering and I was going to hook up vacuum lines but I got stuck. On my vacuum pump (belt driven pump from a GM 6.2/6.5 diesel) there are two ports, an inlet and an outlet. Which one needs to go where? One definitely feels like there is more vacuum on it, but when I plug it the other port also creates vacuum? And what all needs vacuum? What I can see is the power brakes and one line to control heater functions inside the cab. Is this all that I need vacuum for?
#42
#44
Update: I finally got the clutch bled went through a couple bottles of fluid and hours of standing on my head in the engine bay trying to pump more air out because I had to take the master cylinder right off the firewall and flip it upside down. So I went for a quick rip and everything is working fine. I hooked up my throttle, I have a pretty slick setup for that. The pedal isn't stiff like some other people complain of when doing these swaps. I've hooked up power steering and I was going to hook up vacuum lines but I got stuck. On my vacuum pump (belt driven pump from a GM 6.2/6.5 diesel) there are two ports, an inlet and an outlet. Which one needs to go where? One definitely feels like there is more vacuum on it, but when I plug it the other port also creates vacuum? And what all needs vacuum? What I can see is the power brakes and one line to control heater functions inside the cab. Is this all that I need vacuum for?
#48
well, short of running my exhaust pipe and wiring up my glow plugs my swap was finished. I say was because now I have a lot more work for myself So I was driving it down the road without a pyro (I know dumb right) but I had a laser thermometer I would get out and check my temperatures after every hard pull I tried. Every time I checked my egts were below 1000 degrees so I turn around to go back to the shop and give it one more hard pull to see how fast the truck will top out at. I had it at 120km/h before I let off (it wasn't quite redlined) and when I came to a stop the engine was chugging bad and blowing more smoke out the crankcase vent than the exhaust. Anyways I melted number two and three pistons and scored the cylinders bad. So now I'm looking at my options. either rebuild or buy another one... any suggestions? I was thinking I could possibly bore it out in frame and I found 0.005+ pistons for it.... That's kind of what I'm leaning towards right now. Has anyone rebuilt one of these? What kind of aftermarket parts are out there?
#49
Dang, sorry to hear! Usedkubotaman has rebuilt many of these. As for the EGT's mine will cool off immediately when I lift the throttle, so by the time you stopped and opened the hood and checked with the laser it would have cooled @ 60% or more. I would say if you have a line on another motor, that would be the best choice.
#50
Yep I've built a bunch. I tried the aftermarket parts on EBAY, the hard parts seemed ok but the gaskets and o-rings didn't fit well. We'll have to see how the hard parts last over time. I choose not to use them on my latest build and went back with genuine Kubota parts. Kubota parts aren’t cheap! I believe you’ll find a complete kit is in the $1400.00 range and you have to add machine work to that.
EGT are a touchy thing, they will climb to dangerous temps within seconds and fall back just as fast when you take your foot out of it. Sorry about your engine!!
EGT are a touchy thing, they will climb to dangerous temps within seconds and fall back just as fast when you take your foot out of it. Sorry about your engine!!