I get home tonight.i will try and put a pic of my turbo oil drain, in my Cherokee build tomorrow. I think if i had gone ahead and over sized the Kubota bolt boss Mine might have come out better. Because i stayed with the metric size, the biggest i could get and keep the 12mm bolt was a dash 6 AN.

 

Update: Since my last post, my adapter plate from Gaines 12 has shown up. So I test fitted the engine to get measurements for my oil pan. I ended up cutting a chunk out of the front half of the bobcat pan to lower the front and added the extra material to the rear to make a deeper sump. That way I hope I didn't lose too much oil capacity. I've notched out the bellhousing to make room for the starter. And I painted it all Kubota Orange!
So next I got to modify the oil pickup tube and finish my motor mounts then hopefully I'll get the engine bolted in for good.

 

Here's the close up of my crankshaft where I drilled it out and tapped for a 1/2" bolt. There is still lots of meat left

 

Oh I forgot to mention earlier that I added a heavier spring to the governor it's super stiff now so I'm hoping it will get me enough rpm's. I also bought that K03 turbo I mentioned earlier. Anyways, here are some more pictures of the rig.

 

I used to have a twin of that truck when I lived in SD, it was a nice truck. That one didn't happen to come from the US did it?

 

I'm assuming that it's not from the US, the speedo is in km's, but I'm from southern ON like 1 or 2 hours from the border and I bought it in this area so who knows

 

What size bit did you guys use to drill out the flywheel for the stock ranger pilot bearing?

 

Update: I've finished oil pan and pickup tube modifications. I've also fabbed up all the parts for my engine mounts, just gotta bolt it in and weld to fit. So once I mount my crank sensor for the tach, I will drop the engine for good, hopefully this week. Oh and I figured out my turbo drain. I sort of used dieselxj's idea of drilling out a bolt boss but instead of using a banjo fitting I drilled it out a size bigger and tapped it out for 3/8 pipe thread. I will use a elbow off there up to the turbo, I might use compression fittings from there. With the pipe thread fitting I think I will get more flow back to the block compared to the banjo fitting due to less restrictions.

Freedom92, I'm not sure what size drill bit was used, my machinist just fit the bearing for me when he was turning down the flywheel (my lathe wasn't big enough ) So I'm not sure what size he turned it out to maybe someone else could chime in.

Question: Is there a coolant temperate sensor out there that will work the same as mine but has threads on it? Mine was held into the Ford thermostat housing with a snap ring type deal, I want one with threads on it for ease of installation. perhaps one from an older ranger will do the trick?

 

looking good Detroitdiesel, That is very orange. The dipstick tube drill size has been posted more than once, I can't remember it off the top of my head, but I know it is in Kubotaman's thread somewhere, and some others.
For your coolant sensor. Where are you going to put it? There is the instant gratification method to modify what you have in your hand to work, Can you just duplicate the existing mount somewhere else?, Or you can do it the hard way and research on the internet and FSM's what the resistance range is for your sender, then try and cross reference that with others. I don't think you ever said what year and engine was your truck?

 

For my dipstick, I just kept moving up one size at a time till it fit snug. However, dieselxj I think that Freedom92 was talking about the pilot hole in the centre of the flywheel not the dipstick tube.

After some quick searching I found that earlier rangers had a thread in style but Ford switched to clip in ones because the threaded ones would leak in the plastic thermostat cover. my truck is 2001 4.0l sohc. I'm putting it at the rear passenger side on the top of the head.