haha I'll try to talk in miles from now on. 2800 at 75 is sort of high but thats about where they run in the bobcats. and considering our highest speed limit in Canada is 60 mph on the highways thats not too bad. it pulls good in that power band then tapers off up to 3000. if my truck were under geared it would have no problem pulling 5th... not sure what gears I have either 3.73 or 4.10s kinda leaning towards to 4.10s. It has like 31s on it.

There is no external fuel leak, I may try swaping injection pumps with the one I have already.

 

usedkubotaman

not sure where you are talking about it leaking, but there are no external leaks that i can see I will check again. I am running a DI engine. I was kind of wondering about the shims under the IP. what will advancing or retarding the time do to my power and egts? I figured I was low on boost, I don't think I have anymore exhaust or boost leaks. I am getting black smoke, haven't turned the screw much like I said. Where I have the fuel set now the egts max out around 1000F. If I turn it up more sure I'll get more power but my egts will just only get higher correct?

 

I guess maybe not a fuel leak, maybe an air leak. 1000 is not too high for egt. It is personal preference, I think most folks think up to about 1200 is ok, that is the # I try not to exceed, and momentary in the 1100's I think is ok. I am sure someone else may chime in. I think removing shims advances the timing. Usedkubotaman has the knowledge on that,
Don't forget these engines develop max torque way way down low. Mine will run pretty high rpm's, but is does not feel like it has the power at high rpm's that it does at low rpm's
There should be a tag on your rear diff to get you the gear ratio, if not that, then you can use a VIN # decoder,

 

ya I'm pretty scared to go much over 1000 after melting my first one down. removing shims will advance the timing and i think it will increase power but i think it would probably also increase egts

i will try to figure out my axle ratio

 

I am out 2 full turns on my rack. Not much black smoke at all. Sort of funny sometimes I get smoke and sometimes not. When I get a chance I am going to pull my IP shims to advance my timing as well, or maybe on my next motor.
I am pretty happy with my rig overall, I have a pretty bad rear end howl I plan on clearing up with the 2.71 swap, and there is a annoying vibration I have been tracking, that is power ON dependent, Both my trans and rear end were swaps as well, and they are close to 300000 mile components.
So it is still true garbage in garbage out. you would think I would learn after the MB swap into the $100 jeep
If you are losing prime I would keep looking for a air leak

 

what size intercoolers is everyone running? Is a first gen cummins too big? Roughly 39x12x1.5 with 2.5in inlet and outlet

 

I tried to start a thread just for turbos and intercoolers, got some good info on turbo's, but not so much on intercoolers.
I got a cx racing 29x11x3, I am very happy with it, pretty close to a 100DegF temp drop for me at least on a 40F day. I think the real test will be what it does in the middle of summer with under hood temps over 120.
Just a note on the cx racing stainless t-bolt clamps, they sort of suck in my opinion. the clamps from Silicone intakes seem to be higher quality
Don't look for a intercooler to be a magic bullet for your EGT though

 

Last night I was playing with it more, If I turned the full down a half turn or so it brought the boost down with it but the egts still went to 1100 or so. when I turned it up it would boost up to 29 psi with egts going even higher but right in the middle theres a sweet spot where I can get 29 psi and keep it right around 1100. So I'm hoping an intercooler will bring it down to 900 or 1000. Right now I'm just running a dinky vw 1.9 tdi intercooler behind the rad so I'd like to find a bigger one to fit in front..

 

Yeah your IC is too small, a bigger one would probably help a lot!!! I played with mine, taking the IC out of the loop, and the EGT's went through the roof. I run a huge IC off a Volvo, it's as big as my radiator.

1100 is safe, 1200 is safe on short runs, I don't like hitting the 1250 range.

Shims: You need to know where you're starting. Depending on which generation engine you're running you should be able to look around and find Carrier Manuals on-line. You can look there to find the factory timing and move up from there. These engine were engineered, in the Carrier setting, to run reduced timing and slower RPM's. When you start increasing the RPM's they will begin to miss so more timing helps correct that. My engine was factory set at 6 degrees, I increase mine to about 12 degrees. I accomplished this by moving the IP cam shaft forward one tooth vs. pulling out all the shims, mind you I was building the engine so I had access. You should be able to get pretty close removing shims.

 

so i should just try removing one shim at a time?