oops sorry about the mix up on the pilotbearing.
The passenger side cyl head spot is a good, but don't forget that is probably a british standard pipe thread back there. Also I put mine up front and high so I could have a spot to burp air out of my cooling system. my radiator is a tiny bit lower than the thermostat housing
have fun with it

 

I didn't see another spot to put it besides at the back

 

I think it depends on how high your radiator is, weather you need a air burp spot. Some of the older engines had sensors in the T-stat housing, I was going to drill and tap my new 90 deg. angled t-stat housing, some folks have modified or made new T-stat housing. or put inline with the heater hoses, I put mine in a modified joint in my upper radiator hose. Those are some options, there are others.

 

This is probably a good question for usedkubotaman but has anyone played with injection timing by removing shims from under the pump cassette? I was told it will advance timing but I think will increase injection duration also. Is there any gains to this?

 

Yes removing a shim will increase the timing but will not increase duration. I'm actually running my new truck with the injector cam advanced 1 tooth. I did this because I didn't have enough shims to attain the timing I wanted.

 

I still think it must increase duration. Removing shims sets the plungers down lower on the camshaft. Therefore the plunger will ride the lobe of the cam sooner, increasing timing, but then the plunger will also do the same on the backside of the lobe increasing the duration of injection correct? Maybe I'm overthinking this.

Update: Engine is bolted into truck for good I've since finished the motor mounts, hooked up some of the accessories and got the starting circuit to work. I've also hooked up all the fuel lines and mounted the fuel filter. So I've also had it running in the truck which is pretty exciting But when I went to go for a rip I found out the clutch still needs to be bled out. So I will do that then hook enough stuff up to go for a drive in it. Then I will add the turbo, and related intake and exhaust bits, tidy up the wiring and put it on the road!

 

[QUOTE=DetroitDiesel;1080150]I still think it must increase duration. Removing shims sets the plungers down lower on the camshaft. Therefore the plunger will ride the lobe of the cam sooner, increasing timing, but then the plunger will also do the same on the backside of the lobe increasing the duration of injection correct? Maybe I'm overthinking this.

The injectors fire (pop) at specific pressure, removing shims simply makes them reach that pop pressure sooner. It doesn't matter that its rides the lobe longer as the injector closes as soon as it pops.

 

ok ya that makes sense

I had troubles bleeding my clutch. I thought I had it bled but the clutch wouldn't release, so I bled it some more last night and it still won't quite release. I got it to the point where it will at least stop creeping ahead when I crank it in gear but not enough to shift it. I talked to Gaines12 and he suggested prying back on the slave cylinder while bleeding. I'm also going to try pulling the master cylinder off the firewall and flipping it upside to see what air will come out.

Does anyone else have tips/tricks/suggestions for bleeding a ranger clutch. Anyone I've talked to said they were a pita

 

Not trying to hijack your thread, but anybody around Tracy CA, looking for a kubota 2203 idi. I sent one out to yellow 68 got, and he won't pay for it.$300.

 

I just heard from yellow68gto, said he's taking care of things. I figured he was a standup guy. We all get priorities swapped around us without warning and things tend to get forgotten. I hope you all give him the opertunity to help with conversion needs. Like I said I figured he was a standup guy. And he has nice products.