If you have an ARC Welder just go to a welding shop and get a couple of low-hydrogen rod's. But I think they only sell them by the pound. But like you said for what you are doing a good braze job will work just fine. Make sure you have fresh flux when doing this.

Come on now Big Cold Front. We are in South TEXAS. We do not know what Real Cold is. Heck for South TEXAS the weather is just now getting to the point where it is comfortable to work on stuff.

And almost time to start Home Casting some Bullets for my Custom Built 358 Winchester Savage.

 

Is anyone running a oil restrictor in the feed line for the turbo?

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well I think I answered my own question. I learned that mostly only the ball bearing turbos need restrictors

 

not much progress today. I am looking for some advice today. I was advised by my welder friend that welding the sleeve to the cast iron pulley, may cause it to not run true, brazing would be better, but still a chance to warp it. The wall thickness on each piece is approx. .2".
So lots of options for your opinions
#1 pre-heat and TIG Weld the front and the back with the special rod for cast iron
#2 pre heat and braze with the TIG torch
#3 pre-heat braze with oxy/acetylene
#4 drill and tap for set screws on the back side; only through the pulley, and set screw on the sleeve, This would most likelyt be at an angle as there is not much room to drill a straight hole in this part of the back side. Then drill and tap the crank nose for a hold down bolt to keep the whole show on the crank.
#5 drill and tap the back side all the way through the pulley and sleeve; and set screw on the crank. then DONE
#6 make a big 3.4" approx. washer out of .5" steel bore a blind hole for the front part of the sleeve to set in, pick up the 3 tapped holes in the pulley, drill and tap 3 more holes in the sleeve, this will locate the sleeve to the pulley, then center drill the washer and drill and tap the crank nose for a hold down bolt that will hold the whole assy on the crank. The sleeve is approx. .4" wide on top, so not a lot of room to drill and tap for bolts, but enough for maybe up to 1/4" bolts
#7 use the previously mentioned Loctite 640 adhesive, alone or on any of the cold styles.
#8 almost forgot. drill through the serpentine pulley and tap into the Kubota pulley , I think Usedkubotaman did this, Then I still need to drill the crank nose to keep the sleeve from coming out. The way I machined the sleeve there is no turning it around. I guess I might be able to run the whole pulley on there turned around.
Plus another question I have not done much brazing at all. Can you get brazing to flow by capillary attraction like sweating copper pipe??? how hot do you have to get, and how hot is the preheat. Can you preheat in a oven or does it have to be hotter than 500F for preheat How much chance of warping would brazing cause?
I checked the runout on the pulley today and it is nice and true now. It would be a shame and $100 loss to mess it up with heat. If I use heat and it messes it up, I don't think it will be salvageable
Next I finished the PS pump mount, It looks ok but when it came under tension I did not like it very much, it is close to the other pulley So I suppose a reDO on the PS pump mount is in the cards as well.

Ok thanks

 

I do not understand why you are using a Harmonic Balancer? Since as noted by the pictures the rubber sleeve that joins the hub and the outer ring is cracked up pretty good which could cause a failure of the Harmonic Balancer. If you are using the Harmonic Balancer just for the Hub to attach the pulley assembly to that is fine as you can press the inner hub out of the Ring if you should so wish.

If you feel you can use a TIG ( Tungsten Inert Gas ) welder with the correct rod then I would say go for it. You do not need to have a continuous weld. When you are worried about heat you will make just a bit more than a good tack weld. Then let the part cool till you can handle it by hand again then put on another Tac weld and so on and so forth. But I would think that 3 or 4 good Tac welds on both ends should be good enough to hold the machined hub and Harmonic Balancer hub together. Also as an FYI you can use a very wet 100% Cotton towel and wrap it around the Harmonic Balancer just inside of the rubber ring to help keep that part cool. They also sell some stuff that is like play doe that can act as a heat insulator.

But I would still try the LocTite 640 first. If by some chance it slips then by all means remove it and weld it. But as you said you still have to hold the Hub assembly to the crankshaft. Of which I would probably drill 1 or maybe 2 holes 180 degrees apart all the way through the Harmonic Balancer hub and through the center splined hub after they are put together with the LocTite 640 then thread through both. By doing it this way you will not only have a chemical bond but also the two set screws that are threaded through both hubs to be tightened in between the crankshaft splines.

Sorry forgot to add this little important part. Do NOT get any Green Loctite 640 on the set screws as you can pretty much forget about removing them with threads intact.

For the Set Screws I would use Loctite 242 Blue. It is a good medium strength Loctite.

 

high Jester. thanks for your input. I did not put together until just now that the harmonic balancer was a 2 piece set up until you pointed out the joint. I thought that the plastic/rubber was just set into the surface of the pulley on each side. I could not figure out why, I thought it would be for harmonic absorbing.
But now that you mention it I can see the OE balancer is in 2 pieces. Well I guess that really rules out pre-heating and welding on the whole thing.
I guess I will opt for one of the cold methods. the full set screws will be the simplest. maybe not the easiest. I have a very small aircraft 90deg drill on a flex shaft, I might be able to get a straight hole with that, but it is not designed for drilling deep holes in steel.
I was thinking it would be a shame to have to separate the sleeve to put in the loctight. the fit now is really nice. I would think that if I pull them apart now, it will get looser the next time I put them together.
The reason I picked the OE jeep harmonic balancer, is for several reasons. Mainly I did not want to have to change pulleys on the jeep aircon compressor. and I did not want to open up the aircon system since it is a working aircon. Also this is OE size for the jeep aircon. The jeep Harmonic balancer was on hand. and lastly when I tried to make a new v-drive pulley from scratch the results were not very good.
Thanks Jester, I don't know if you realize how much you have been helping me with your comments. It is always good to hear other opinions.
Have you started on your accessories yet? Are you planning for Airconditioning? v-belts or serpentine?

 

In a word No . Still collecting parts. Monday I will have a large order with Leonard's Parts and just a couple of hours ago I put in an order for the Isuzu Alt/Vac unit.

I do plan on A/C but we all know about plans. . And yes I would like to stay with V Belts.

For the hole that you need to make on the hub you can go to I believe Sears or Home Depot or Lowe's and look for there long shank drill bits. As I am pretty sure you can find one long enough to keep the chuck above the face of the Harmonic balancer.

And yes the Harmonic Balancer is 2 piece as the rubber between the two pieces along with the weight of the outer ring is what helps with Harmonics.

This might be a bit **** but I would be careful about adding a Harmonic Balancer unless you know for sure that the engine it came off of was an internally balanced engine and that the Kubota V2203 is also an Internally balanced engine. If so the Balance of the Harmonic Balancer should be Neutral. If it is not then it could cause extra vibration.


I will tell you what it is much harder to type what I mean that to say what I mean see what I mean.

 

I thought about long drills as well. I have some already. I wanted to go with 1/4" set screws, I don't think I have a bit that big. I am pretty sure I will not be able to get the correct bit until Monday. So I guess plenty of time to re-engineer the PS pump mount. My big tool order should arrive on Monday with the reamer for the transmission dowels

 

does the 2203 have oil squirters??

 

not that I know of. There was a guy on orangetractortalks. that added some oil squirters to I think a 3cyl Kubota. I am not sure how it worked out for him

 

I looked and couldn't find the topic on orangetractortalks, I would like to see how he did it, fixing to put my DI engine back together.