Kubota v2203 into a jeep cherokee 2wd
#41
Holy Crap that was a lot of work. I finally got a working flywheel cover, and a alignment jig to fit the cover.
I think I am over the hump so to speak. I still need to make the actual adapter plate from the trans bell to the Kubota flywheel cover, and get all the holes drilled.
It was very difficult with my machines to hit the #'s for the alignment jig. I kept going over or under by just the tiniest amounts. The aluminum was too soft and really difficult to hit a target size. So all the jigs are steel. I am happy with what I have so far. The transmission input shaft centering sleeve fits so well it is air tight. and you have to wait a second for the air pressure to leak out before it will seat all the way.
I think I am over the hump so to speak. I still need to make the actual adapter plate from the trans bell to the Kubota flywheel cover, and get all the holes drilled.
It was very difficult with my machines to hit the #'s for the alignment jig. I kept going over or under by just the tiniest amounts. The aluminum was too soft and really difficult to hit a target size. So all the jigs are steel. I am happy with what I have so far. The transmission input shaft centering sleeve fits so well it is air tight. and you have to wait a second for the air pressure to leak out before it will seat all the way.
#43
Thank You so much for the great pictures. As you are doing a great job.
#44
Well I have the transmission to Kubota adapter ring started. I have it centered on the trans input shaft. I now need to work on marking and drilling the outer ring. That is the transmission bell housing to the adapter plate.
I have the drawing that Red posted. but my bell housing seems to be just a tiny bit different. Plus I now I am coming up against the previously mentioned problem that the bell housing bolt holes are tapered about .030" from bolt head to mating face, with the skinny end at the bolt head and the wide part on the mating face. So my alignment punches are pretty worthless in that situation. WHY THE HECK DID JEEP DO THAT? All the transmission bellhousing bolt holes are the same taper, and they are sized in sets of 2. The top two are one size then the hollow dowel are another size and the bottom 2 are yet a different size. the only even area is where the 2 hollow dowels go, and even then they are tapered up to the bolt head after the dowel stops. I guess it makes it easier to get the bolts started when installing the transmission??
I think I am at a stopping point. tomorrow morning I need to get a ( I guess) 9/16" drill bit and a reamer if I can find one. To get the 2 hollow dowels put in first, that should be a base point for the rest of the bell housing.
Does anyone have any sizes for the fit of the hollow dowels that go in the jeep bell housing at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions?????? If not I am going with .560 which is what mine measure, which is only .003 off from the drawing
FTE If you see this what did you do to get this matched up on your Mercedes jeep?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
oh and jester there is no need to drill an air vent. This is just for an alignment sleeve. and I will be done with it in a few days. I just thought it was cool that the fit was snug enough to create a noticeable amount of air cushion. it does bleed out
I have the drawing that Red posted. but my bell housing seems to be just a tiny bit different. Plus I now I am coming up against the previously mentioned problem that the bell housing bolt holes are tapered about .030" from bolt head to mating face, with the skinny end at the bolt head and the wide part on the mating face. So my alignment punches are pretty worthless in that situation. WHY THE HECK DID JEEP DO THAT? All the transmission bellhousing bolt holes are the same taper, and they are sized in sets of 2. The top two are one size then the hollow dowel are another size and the bottom 2 are yet a different size. the only even area is where the 2 hollow dowels go, and even then they are tapered up to the bolt head after the dowel stops. I guess it makes it easier to get the bolts started when installing the transmission??
I think I am at a stopping point. tomorrow morning I need to get a ( I guess) 9/16" drill bit and a reamer if I can find one. To get the 2 hollow dowels put in first, that should be a base point for the rest of the bell housing.
Does anyone have any sizes for the fit of the hollow dowels that go in the jeep bell housing at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions?????? If not I am going with .560 which is what mine measure, which is only .003 off from the drawing
FTE If you see this what did you do to get this matched up on your Mercedes jeep?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
oh and jester there is no need to drill an air vent. This is just for an alignment sleeve. and I will be done with it in a few days. I just thought it was cool that the fit was snug enough to create a noticeable amount of air cushion. it does bleed out
Last edited by dieselxj; 11-16-2013 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#45
What I did to get it alligned perfect was to drill oversized holes in the steel plate where the allignment dowels go, insert the dowels in the trans, then line up with the jig and weld the dowels to the steel plate. Now you have the adapter set perfect, drill out the rest of the holes. the reason the other holes in the bell aren't perfect is they don't do any allignment, only the dowles, so they have alot of slop.
#46
Well I can credit Jestergrin with the inspiration to fix the tapered bellhousing hole problem. I made some reduced ID (for the alingnment punch) tapered OD bushings to fill the bell housing holes. It only took me about 1.5 hours each to get the first 2 made up. The next 4 should go a bit faster. But they work great. The alignment punch has a lot of guide length to deliver a good straight transfer.
I will do the same thing for the hollow dowels on the initial alignment. I still don't know exactly how I will get the finished ID of the dowel hole in my adapter plate.
FTE if I understand correctly you basically made the dowel hole in your plate bigger than press fit and then welded the dowels into the steel plate from the back while the transmission was pressed up to the adapter?
I will do the same thing for the hollow dowels on the initial alignment. I still don't know exactly how I will get the finished ID of the dowel hole in my adapter plate.
FTE if I understand correctly you basically made the dowel hole in your plate bigger than press fit and then welded the dowels into the steel plate from the back while the transmission was pressed up to the adapter?
#49
ok the hard part of the adapter is done. The Steel plate from the Transmission bell housing to the Kubota plate is centered and marked on the trans bell. The rest of it can be marked with the bell housing off the transmission.
I few things I did not forsee. Once it was all upside down and the trans was sitting on the plate all centered up. I only had one reference point , so the transmission was free to rotate on the plate. I had to mark and drill one hole first and pin it with a dowel/drill bit, So with 2 points located the plate was not able to spin, and I could mark the rest of the holes.
Then I almost dropped the transmission because my strap slipped. I must have lifted that trans a dozen times, You always have to be on your game in the shop.
Next I have to get the big dowel holes drilled to the correct size, along with the other holes in the trans bell side. I hope to be able to compare my marks to the drawing that Red provided. I am not sure what I will do if they don't match up. The first 2 I checked were pretty close but probably over .050" off from the drawing by eyeballing it. Then I need to put the Kubota flywheel housing and the trans bell plate together , mark and drill that.
And then a million other things to do. But it is coming along.
I need to start thinking about intercoolers and intake piping
I few things I did not forsee. Once it was all upside down and the trans was sitting on the plate all centered up. I only had one reference point , so the transmission was free to rotate on the plate. I had to mark and drill one hole first and pin it with a dowel/drill bit, So with 2 points located the plate was not able to spin, and I could mark the rest of the holes.
Then I almost dropped the transmission because my strap slipped. I must have lifted that trans a dozen times, You always have to be on your game in the shop.
Next I have to get the big dowel holes drilled to the correct size, along with the other holes in the trans bell side. I hope to be able to compare my marks to the drawing that Red provided. I am not sure what I will do if they don't match up. The first 2 I checked were pretty close but probably over .050" off from the drawing by eyeballing it. Then I need to put the Kubota flywheel housing and the trans bell plate together , mark and drill that.
And then a million other things to do. But it is coming along.
I need to start thinking about intercoolers and intake piping