nice job I have been thinking about doing my Comanche the same way

 

Thanks caddy. If I could find a clean Comanche, I would seriously consider getting one, they are pretty much all rust buckets down here. I like the extra length of the truck. I just got a Dakota Extended cab about a month ago to consider as a home for this engine. I really like the Dakota. it is a bit bigger than a Ranger, but has a tighter turning circle.
But alas I have way too many Cherokees at the moment. I also bought a '01 Cherokee for this swap, but both the '01 Cherokee and the Dakota are a little too nice to tear apart as a first gen Kubota swap.
my first diesel swap with the Mercedes into a Cherokee went ok, but we all learn as we go along. I want to have a pretty bug free system before I take apart a nice running vehicle.

Ok on to todays business. There was a fellow asking about weight of the engines. my Kubota weighs 462 pounds today. I had a figure from a spec sheet that said 385# I don't know about that, maybe just a long block. Today my engine has full oil, the aluminum Carrier oil pan, an Isuzu Alt/vac pump, and a remote reservoir power steering pump, Carrier flywheel and NO flywheel cover, NO starter So That 385 weight is full on Pie in the sky dreaming. I still have to add the starter back, the adapter which is all steel and cast iron, engine mounts, and airconditioning compressor, and hardware for that, and the turbocharger, and airfilter. I would not be surprised if I put on another 100#'s.
For comparison the fully dressed jeep 4.0 that came out of the last swap was 465#'s. The fully dressed MB 617 NON turbo was 510#"s
To be honest I am quite surprised at the Kubotas weight.
my nice jeep weighs 3300# +/-, the Dakota with a camper shell weighs 4120#

I spent a bit of today getting the donor POS Cherokee stripped down a bit more. and cleaning up I pulled the clutch/brake pedal assy, and it is different than the next gen Cherokee clutch assy. I think I have a '99 clutch pedal assy floating around somewhere. that is what I was cleaning to look for.
I picked up the Kubota and put it back on the table, moved the AX15 off to the side as I won't be needing it for a while.
Enco tools had a 20% off sale, so I got the drills and reamer for the transmission mount hollow dowel holes mail order, saved me a trip to town.
Here are some more pics of the accessories. FTE you can see the spline adapter I got from HUBcity. it fits, but it is really tight. I think it is from the pain on the Kubota crank nose. I really wanted to finish the accessories first before the adapter. but I got impatient. I have a day or two until my reamer arrives, so I can get back to the accessories and the turbo.
FTE I will have a bit of a change on the Turbo. The .5" plate turned out to not be tall enough for proper clearance from the valve cover. It really looked ok in mockup. so I will either have to go with a 1" solid adapter, or a welded up 2 flange with a pipe in the middle like most of the other guys.
Rangmar, did you get any pics of your engine mounts from the jeep? Also with the Bobcat oil pan did you have to do any track bar mods on the Jeep?

 

Man that looks good, I like the hub adapter. I was surprised at the low curb weight of the Dakota.

 

Thanks FTE. Yes low curb weight on the Dakota. but high weight on the Kubota. I am still waiting on some tools to make the adapter plate like I want. So I am back to working on the accessory mounts. I decided the PS pump mount was not going to be sturdy enough so I am in the process of re-engineering that. and I am working on the ac compressor and turbo mounts today. Maybe I will bore out the jeep serpentine pulley a bit and start to work down the spline adapter, it is a shame to have to cut on a new $100 part.

Any body have any thoughts on drilling and tapping the Kubota crankshaft nose to make lock for the new pulley? I could put a screw and the stock jeep crank washer on there to hold the pulley on the shaft. Or I will have to drill and tap the actual pulley and bushing for at least one set screw. I can't put a very big screw in the crank nose, but I can put something in there. The Jeep pulley was held on with a screw in the end of the crank.

on a big plus side I found my '99 clutch pedal assy. and I am pretty sure it will fit.
I am going to order a new pilot bearing today. I have pretty much decided to use the old clutch , throw out bearing. I think they are pretty fresh , maybe I will be paying for that later, I know I am just throwing money around, and another $150 for a clutch seemed like a lot. I may try and get a measurement on from a new one to see how much friction surface I left on mine.
Also I want to check on getting some new hollow dowels for the trans to engine mount. I have my old ones, but I wanted to make sure they are a new tight fit, that is probably overkill, those little hollow dowels are hard to come by

lets see if I can have a good update later tonight

 

A tiny bit of positive to report, probably more negative, but I don't want to dwell on the negative.
I got the spline bushing turned down to fit the old jeep crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer. It came out pretty nice. I did not want to have a repeat of the flywheel cover interference fit problem, so this one is not really an interference fit. it is snug, but you can turn the pulley on the bushing with some effort.
It will need some or A set screw, or I would really like to just weld the bushing into the pulley.
So I need to figure out if the jeep pulley is cast Iron or cast steel? Any takers on that. I read about doing a spark test on a grinding wheel. good thing I have a spare pulley. It sure machined like cast iron. more dust than shavings.
so if it is cast Iron I still would not mind trying to weld the sleeve in there. I left a nice little lip for that purpose.
I posted on Gaines thread about my turbo adapter debacle. The adapter works but it is but ugly. A few minutes of distraction ruined a full half days work. and I have a turbo adapter with the EGT probe pointing the wrong direction I am pretty sure I will make a new one, but maybe not until later.
here is a pic of the bushing and the jeep pulley

 

All you need is Loctite Sleeve Retainer No.640 and it is Green.

 

Hi Jester.. thanks for the idea. I looked into the Loctite 640. I don't know about that. I think there might be a bit too much power on this to use a glue product. If I understood the instructions indicate it is good for fractional HP applications. Do you have any actual experience with this product?????
It seems it would be just as easy to weld. I am hoping it is cast steel not cast iron. I still have to do the spark test
I want to make a sleeve to act as a drill guide for the crank nose. I want to tap the crank nose for a retainer bolt. There was as big washer on the jeep's crank. I am not sure how deep I will tap. But the bolt and washer should be the main hold for the whole pulley on the crank system. I suppose if I did use the glue, the bolt and washer could press the parts together to help adhesion.
here is another pic of the accessory system, still not finished but getting there.

 

Hey jester I was looking at the Loctite 640 specs some more. the torque #'s are pretty impressive. How could we measure the torque applied by the aircon compressor? I would have to measure the clearance on my stuff again to make sure it is tight enough. The specs on the Loctite indicate good bond strength at up to almost .002"

 

This should help. http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/640-EN.PDF

To be honest I pretty much stay away from the stuff as what I normally do I wish for it to come apart again. With LocTite 640 you will usually have to heat it a good bit to remove what you used the Loctite 640 on.

But yes I used oh a couple of Gallons of it when putting on slip fit pulley and gears onto a shafts for Pellerin Washing Machines. The ones large enough that you can stand inside of the drum. I found it to be tough stuff. I would tell you how I got drug into that but it would be a boring story.

You can also Call LocTite and tell them what you are doing and I am sure they will offer some help on what would be best to select.

But yes if you like and you do not plan to take the pulley off of the splined adapter again then weld it on. If you are going to weld Steel to iron use a low-hydrogen rod or Braze it.

And while we are on the subject I forgot what the Alternator is that also has the Vacuum pump made into it? And where the best place would be to purchase said item?

 

hi Jester. The pulley showed to be cast iron on the spark test. So I dont' get off easy and have a cast steel pulley. Brazing could be an option. I would like to test the Loctite before a real project. I have not had such good luck in the past with metal adhesives I don't think there is a ton of torque on the pulley. From what I had been told it takes about 5hp to run an automotive aircon. It would be really fun to be able to know exactly what torque the compressor applies to the driver.
The plan is for this pulley to be permanently on the bushing and removable from the crankshaft. brazing is sounding pretty good. What ever It is connected with it needs to not leave a lot of buildup, at least on the rear side for clearance to the OE crank pulley
I need to get this pulley fully sorted out and measured before I can proceed much further on the Aircon compressor mount and its alignment. I need to get set to drill and tap the crank nose. Anybody done that yet? Any comments on what would be a good size bolt to put in the Kubota crank. I think the OD of the spline is just under 1"

Jester I got the Alternator off Ebay at a fixed price, with free shipping. it is a 70 amp Isuzu NPR alternator/vacuum pump. It was $105, brand new with a 1 year warranty. It is from a 3.9l 4BD series Isuzu. There are a couple of larger amp units available as well, but the price goes up with the amperage.
I did not get around to pulling the water drain. I did look at it, from afar without removing it looks to be pipe thread, but bigger than 1/8th

Big cold front coming tomorrow for us, I guess most everyone else probably already has it. So stay warm, and have fun