Got it cleaned and seems to be starting better but I haven't had it out in the cold yet. I'll find out tonight for sure.

What do you recomend for a fuel pressure gauge?

Also the LP is new, would it be worth changing it again? and what to?

 

There are differing opinions on fuel pressure guages. Some like electric, some like mechanical, some run isolators some dont. I bypass all of the BS (and problems) here by running fuel to a mechanical guage in the cab on both my trucks for quite some time now. I used good line and fittings and arent worried the least bit about a leak. Its the best way to get an accurate reading.

You dont have to have a fancy gauge - any pressure guage will work. But the lighted automotive type are better for night use. You should get a 0-30 psi guage if you are going to upgrade your lift pump (some of the aftermarket pumps can put out more than 15 psi, so a 15 psi guage is of no use).

Myself, I like the Isspro EV Series and the DiPricol Optix guages.

No, you probably do not have to change out the new lift pump you put in. Did you put the lift pump in the original location of is it in the tank? Be aware that the lift pumps being sold are really crappy, and dont put out enough pressure to keep the injector pump lubed and cool (of course there are more factors than that). Putting the pressure guage on will be the ultimate test on whether you should change out the new lift pump. You should be seeing as an absolute minimum 5 psi ate WOT (Wide Open Throttle). If you are not, you need to change it. Do you have any performance enhancements?

There are many fuel system upgrades on the market, none of them are cheap....but neither are injector pumps. Airdog, FASS, and Mitsua are the main players. In buying a pump, its best to get the ones that have the integral filters as they filter the fuel better and remove air from the system. Also, make sure you get a Big Line kit as well (which should come with the new lift pump).

 

Ok, I'm still having trrouble of it starting in cold weather.

Any other Ideas?

 

I like to try the cheap & easy diagnostics first. Change the fuel filters. Run some fuel system cleaner and then if your still having problems some cold weather additive. I really don't think you need it yet in central Iowa, but it gets rid of the water in the system. If the quick & easy doesn't do it, you might check the heating grid. Can you park it inside and does it start OK when its warm? There is a fuel pressure gauge somewhere I've seen that shuts the eng off if the press gets too low. or you can wire it to a BIG Brite warning light.

 

I just replaced the Fuel filter and have been running additive in the past few tanks. It does start better now when its parked inside, but now seems to be an issue in the cold.

How would I go about checking the heating grid? that seems to be where I need to look next..

 

Try replacing the Crankshaft Position Sensor. My 02 had a bad Camshaft position sensor and I had cold weather driveability problems. Eventually it threw 0216 and dealer replaced VP. Still had cold weather problems until I replaced Cam Position Sensor. No more problems. I think the dealer replaced a good VP when the cam sensor would have solved the problem.

 

im from nebraska and an old trick the good ol boys there had was put a lil bit of gas in the fuel ive never done it and im not saying to do it but ive seen it done and it worked but that was on the old non turbo trucks i do know too much s a bad thing tho seen it blow some pistons up

 

When you do get the truck started, do the interior/exterior lights dim? Does the voltmeter swing down to around 9V and then come back up again (repeadedly)???

 

No they don't, the voltmeter starts at 12 or so them jumps to 14 shortly after starting.

 

So your exterior and interior lights dont dim immediatedly after you start the truck?

If not, I doubt the grid heaters are working.