Okay I'll let u guys no soon I'm almost hone

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Can u tell me where that fuel shut off silinoide is located all I see is fuel relay and fuel pump fuse

 

DO NOT USE ETHER ON A 6.5 diesel.

Ever. It can blow things up and at the least ruin your glow plugs. Also do not use a booster charger on these vehicles. They will also take out glow plugs. And can do other damage to expensive parts.

Check the glow plugs. It's easier with 2 testers. Put one test lead on the out side of the glow plug controller & use the other lead to test for continuity to the glow plug lead once you have it unhooked from the glow plug. This will tell you if you have a good circuit to each glow plug.

While you have the lead off test each individual glow plug for continuity. One lead to the spade and one lead to ground.

If the engine is not turning fast enough it will not start. Load test your batteries. If you have dual post batteries be sure to load test the posts you are using. I've had individually bad posts on dual post batteries.

Just because the voltage on a battery is good doesn't mean the battery is good. - I've run into this several times. - Especially with Napa batteries which I have quit using for 2 reasons - to many failures and they are store specific. Now I use Auto Zone, Walmart or Sears where I can get warranty just about anywhere. - You can read the voltage but the post may not be carrying enough amps to do anything. This is why you need to test things with a load tester.

You can also test the positive battery cable and connection by load testing from the starter stud. If things show good at the battery but bad at the starter stud, odds are you have a bad battery cable.

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Instead of cranking the engine to run the lift pump, go to your passenger side firewall and under the cover - if the cover is still there - is the lift pump fuse. Determine which side of the fuse goes to the lift pump and hot wire it. It is best to use a fused wire. You can get 12 volts from one of the studs right there.
Hook it up and let it run. Run about 1/2 gallon or more out the drain by opening the T petcock near the thermostat housing. Pull the hose up and put it in a container. I use a gallon pickle jar. That way I can look for water bubbles and crud. Sometimes you have to leave it sit for about 20 minutes for the water bubbles to settle down to the bottom.

I have had problems clear up just by cleaning the drain.

Also bleed the filter. I use a clear hose off the filter bleeder run back to the container.

You will be able to see when there are no more air bubbles. Be careful to not open the bleeder to far or you will be leaking fuel and possibly sucking back through the hose making it appear that you aren't properly bled yet.

Unfortunately some of the fuel filter to these do not have working bleeders. There isn't even a hole for the fuel to come out of. No matter what you do with those filters the fuel will come out around the bleeder and make a mess. Most notably plastic topped Baldwins.

You can leave the lift pump hot wired all through the starting procedure.

If you need a new lift pump, use an AC Delco for a 1993. They have a little higher capacity. Other than that there are no differences. The aftermarkets are prone to a higher rate of failure.

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On a 1994 you will also want to do the dual lift pump relay upgrade. Google it and you should eventually find a schematic.

If not message me.

You can read 11 volts or so at the lift pump and not have enough juice to run it. Same as the batteries. The Oil Pressure Switch/OPS runs the lift pump. It has a separate terminal for the oil pressure gauge, so a working gauge doesn't mean a working OPS.
If you are getting voltage out to the lift pump fuse you can do the dual relay upgrade and most times there will be enough juice to engage the relays.

 

if the pmd has never been replaced, its under the intake manifold.

if your truck doesnt start with ether the leak might be big enough to where the pump isnt even getting it to the IP

 

I don't get how the truck ran fine no problems then I **** her down for 3 days and it just cranks

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Fuel is getting to the filter so the lift pump is working correct? Let me bring this up... Both batteries have been dieing on me non stop. I cannot get them to hold a charge I have been charging them, trying to start engine, then they die, charge, try something else an they die. Could it not be startin because I need to much juice for everything to work? Or what

 

Read my first post thoroughly. If the engine doesn't turn fast enough it will not start. Load test your batteries first thing.

 

I'll sound like an idiot but will you tell me how to load test it or did you already explain that to me

 

You'll have to come up with a load tester. They have a cheap Chinese rip off in Harbor Freight.
I have a couple of good battery testers/ load testers that I picked up on Ebay pretty reasonable.
You can disconnect the batteries and charge them up. Check the voltage and let them sit for an hour or so and restest the voltage. If they have gone down in voltage much, they are more than likely bad.
Or you can charge them up & take them to just about any parts store or farm store and they will have a load tester there.
Ask around maybe a friend has one.

 

I had the batteries checked and charged at autozone they said they were both good bit took about 3 tries to get them charged.

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Took them home tries to start truck and the battery's does shortly after 15 seconds or so Not of constant turning over just tryin different things they did not last but a couple times of tryin to start the truck

 

How long did they let them sit after charging and before load testing? That can make a huge difference.
Sad thing is not all the employees at the stores know what they are doing.
I'm not understanding why it would take 3 tries to get the batteries charged.

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Your batteries sound weak.

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Did you check your glow plugs?

 

Is this a turbo truck or a naturally aspirated?

Some 94's came with a mechanical pump (db2) so there would be no pmd, but there is a fuel shut off solenoid. This jives with only 2 wires.

Ds4:





Db2:





I ask the question because a db2 truck does not have a pmd which leads to a different type of troubleshooting.

Having the batteries load tested is a good idea. Most shops around here will do one "no cost" if you bring the batteries in. The assumption being if they're bad you'll buy new ones.....

Edit: Oopps, missed where you said you had them tested. They do sound old and tired by the description of thief behavior. Three attempts to get them to charge could be a couple things. A deep discharge will often grow a charger off. The other thing is that they are just old and sulfated and ready for replacement. Expensive if that's not really you problem....

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