95 chev 6.5l turbo
#1
95 chev 6.5l turbo
I have worked on deisels over the years. i have just bought a 95 3/4 TON 4X4 with the
6.5L. I have heard said that they have weak main bearing journals. is this true?
I like the idea of running filter'd or cracked WMO, and I have plenty of access to it. Any thoughts to running it ? Dilute or not? Also should i preheat or not, and if so how hot can i go without damaging the pump?? thanks much
6.5L. I have heard said that they have weak main bearing journals. is this true?
I like the idea of running filter'd or cracked WMO, and I have plenty of access to it. Any thoughts to running it ? Dilute or not? Also should i preheat or not, and if so how hot can i go without damaging the pump?? thanks much
#2
I have worked on deisels over the years. i have just bought a 95 3/4 TON 4X4 with the
6.5L. I have heard said that they have weak main bearing journals. is this true?
I like the idea of running filter'd or cracked WMO, and I have plenty of access to it. Any thoughts to running it ? Dilute or not? Also should i preheat or not, and if so how hot can i go without damaging the pump?? thanks much
6.5L. I have heard said that they have weak main bearing journals. is this true?
I like the idea of running filter'd or cracked WMO, and I have plenty of access to it. Any thoughts to running it ? Dilute or not? Also should i preheat or not, and if so how hot can i go without damaging the pump?? thanks much
#3
These trucks dont like "dirty fuel", it dirtys the optical sensor like stated above. There are people thad do run it and some of those people are replacing injection pumps about every two years. But supposedly the savings is worth it. When you do run it yes you need to heat it, im not sure to what extent... And it NEEDS to be filtered to something like 5 or .5 microns. I cant remember which, but a lot of people double and triple filter it and replace filters a lot. If your good and ok with replacing injector pumps then do it, other wise these really arent the trucks for it..... As for the main bearing journals they are fine. SOmetimes cracking happens in these blocks, but thats it. There are also aftermarket stud girdles for these trucks, but imho not needed...
#4
HMMM, I heard about the optical sensor. I havn't checked to see where it is located yet. But is it internal or external? Also i was looking into swapping in a mech pump, maybe be a bit easier to run "odd" fuels.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
I'll try not to get to off base, but what has everyone experienced when pulling off the cat converter, or even going straight exhaust on these "stock" turbo trucks? milage? drivability? power? Also I live in northern MN where it is normal for us to see -20f to -40f degrees on a regular basis.. just curious. thanks again. i tried to search for some info, but like a newby found none
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
I'll try not to get to off base, but what has everyone experienced when pulling off the cat converter, or even going straight exhaust on these "stock" turbo trucks? milage? drivability? power? Also I live in northern MN where it is normal for us to see -20f to -40f degrees on a regular basis.. just curious. thanks again. i tried to search for some info, but like a newby found none
Last edited by BRUPP; 07-21-2009 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#5
If you can get away with it take it off, that will gain you some power and mileage n such. But the downpipe is also a very restrictive unit itself. Put on a whole new exhaust and you may feel a difference. It all depends on how clogged your soot trap...aka: (catalytic converter on a diesel).. Best thing for noticing power is to put a complete 4'' exhaust on it. OO, that low temps on veggie?? I wouldnt try... That low temp the truck needs to be plugged in at night... IIRC the trucks gp system is said to be good till 20 degrees F, but ive seen buddys go down to around zero. Im not sure about the db2 pumps, never "played" with them...
#6
#7
#8
WMO is discouraged operative word is WASTE, filtration will not change the chemical composition of the oil, it's ph, or remove water, I know many "Old School Smokers" say I ran/run it all the time, possibly in a MFI Diesel, but no way would I consider it in a EFI d
Diesel,
I don't even like WVO in mine though many swear by that also, WASTE has a negative ring about it, only in emergency condition would I run it and as a blend with regular Nr2 mayby 25% maximum, remember cold oil is very hard to atomize add in some animal fats or other foreign emulsion in suspension, FWIW red dyed fuel will not hurt the optic sensor so long as the fuel is clean to begin with.
Diesel,
I don't even like WVO in mine though many swear by that also, WASTE has a negative ring about it, only in emergency condition would I run it and as a blend with regular Nr2 mayby 25% maximum, remember cold oil is very hard to atomize add in some animal fats or other foreign emulsion in suspension, FWIW red dyed fuel will not hurt the optic sensor so long as the fuel is clean to begin with.
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