Yes but you need the plug that fits the regulator. I just used the chrysler electronic regulator that was used since about 1972.

 

Alternator has been replaced, and the batteries tested good, correct?
I am also curious as to how, or who tested your batteries. Having the voltage drop below 11 volts isn`t bad. The true test is to load the battery to half it`s CCA rating for 15 seconds, and voltage should not drop below 9.6 Volts.
I am hoping by this point a multimeter has been purchased, it is an essential item to diagnosing situations such as this. I keep one in my truck at all times.
You could try a "full field" test, which manually puts the alternator into 100% charge. On SOME alternators, there is a "D" shaped hole on the backside of the alternator, inserting a small screwdriver, or other object into this hole will force the regulator into 100% charge state. If you decide to this, do not do it for long, and once again a meter is required to monitor OCV.

 

On a dodge system the regulator is outside of the alternator. Most of the newer ones it is part of the ECM. The full field test is to pull the regulator wire off the back of the alternator and ground that alternator terminal. the other brush lead is 12v. The G.M alternators have an internal regulator with the d shaped hole.

 

No multimeter... i can figure it out w/o one.. regulator wire= big one that goes from alt to relay then battery??? then what do i do to full field??? mine just has the 2 prong plug in unlike the older ones that had the posts and individual wires..

 

NO - you need a multimeter to troubleshoot this. You should have at least 14 V at the battery terminals when you start the truck (and Im not talking about the one on the dash).

 

The big wire is the output. The regulator is one of the two small ones. One of the small ones has 12v when the key is on. The other small one is the regulator wire. this is the one to short to ground to full field it. You really do need a meter to check things properly though. you could get a meter at any auto parts store, radio shack, harbor freight, or even home depot or some other hardware store. Harbor freight probably would be the least expensive.

 

heres the possibility.... trailer wiring harness got ripped out and was shorting to the bed.... could that have blown my alternater relay/fuse??? shouldnt that relay/fuse go before the voltage regulater???

 

There are several fuseable link wires in the harness. A short could have burned one of them out. The easy way to test a fusable link wire is to pull on it. If it streches it is burned out.

 

well thanks everyone for the help i'm just gonna take all day tomo and figure it out..meeting adjourned..

 

get her done??