Head Gasket leak - I'm going to BOMB it.
#11
I was using the ME 14, mostly on SW 3, and there is a lot of timing rattle. I will have to update it. The new update has the stock power level, with DPF delete, also. I ran the truck for a week on SW 0 , half power, to reduce the coolant loss. Does the new Smarty update have the half power setting? Can you get any revision or just the latest?
Luke, thanks for the heads up, some folks putting no name gaskets in Cummins boxes.
I will go to the Cummins dealer and get a genuine gasket from them.
Luke, thanks for the heads up, some folks putting no name gaskets in Cummins boxes.
I will go to the Cummins dealer and get a genuine gasket from them.
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Diesel Dawgs Performance (11-23-2010)
#13
The head is off, and going to a machine shop to be surfaced. You need to use a good shop that can get the right finish. I did not remove the injectors, they are still in the head. I have a long prybar, but could not get them to move. The engine shop should have some more tools.
I think the extra heat might have made the o-ring seat really well. Do these use the copper washers as well?
I think the extra heat might have made the o-ring seat really well. Do these use the copper washers as well?
#14
So, I took the head to a machine shop this morning , and then went over to Cummins for the head gasket. The fellow asked me the info, and then said, we don't have any of those, have a nice day. The partsman beside him said, we have a bunch of them loose, we just don't have them in the kit. So, I got a gasket , wrapped in plastic and on a cardboard printed with "Cummins Genuine Parts". The one thing to watch for is, the hose is a metric size. I poked a hole in one during removal, and my local store did not have the right size.
The machine shop had the head surfaced by 4:00, and did a fine job.
The machine shop had the head surfaced by 4:00, and did a fine job.
#15
#16
#17
I put the head on with ARP 425 studs torqued to 135 ft/lbs. I had to clearance the aluminum girdle that the valve cover sits on. The stud nut and washer need a bit more room at the back of the engine, I used a half round file to round the inside corner. It is the rear drivers side stud, the corner is cast at a 45 degree angle, and needs to be round. Take care to not file into the lip that holds the o-ring.
Another thing to watch is the short bits of hose, they are a metric size, and hard to find ( expensive ), but fairly easy to rip.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
The deletes are going well, so far
DPF and NOX canister delete
EGR cooler delete
EGR crossover pipe delete
Lifting lug delete - The rear one was in the way, now they are both gone
Planned deletes and add ons
Grid heater delete
Throttle valve delete
Grid heater relocate kit
Intake elbow - home porting
AFE cold side boost tube
Stock fuel pump delete - plan on using FASS platinum series.
If the FASS system works as good as they claim, I might delete the fuel filter, too.
My local FASS authorized dealer has no stock, and only orders on a paid up front basis.
The engine bay looks good with all that stuff removed, and the stock air intake system is restrictive. The air intake horn looks like it has a gentle curve, but when you look inside it , there are ribs, and the outlet is small and not straight . I did some porting, and the aluminum is about 3/8 inch thick. I enlarged the outlet side a bit, easy to do , and contoured the corners and the central bolt boss ( huge ). Airflow is good !
Another thing to watch is the short bits of hose, they are a metric size, and hard to find ( expensive ), but fairly easy to rip.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
The deletes are going well, so far
DPF and NOX canister delete
EGR cooler delete
EGR crossover pipe delete
Lifting lug delete - The rear one was in the way, now they are both gone
Planned deletes and add ons
Grid heater delete
Throttle valve delete
Grid heater relocate kit
Intake elbow - home porting
AFE cold side boost tube
Stock fuel pump delete - plan on using FASS platinum series.
If the FASS system works as good as they claim, I might delete the fuel filter, too.
My local FASS authorized dealer has no stock, and only orders on a paid up front basis.
The engine bay looks good with all that stuff removed, and the stock air intake system is restrictive. The air intake horn looks like it has a gentle curve, but when you look inside it , there are ribs, and the outlet is small and not straight . I did some porting, and the aluminum is about 3/8 inch thick. I enlarged the outlet side a bit, easy to do , and contoured the corners and the central bolt boss ( huge ). Airflow is good !
Last edited by Deleted09; 11-25-2010 at 08:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#19
This is the delete photo, much neater
That's what it looked like before. I am running on SW2 still on ME 14, but taking it easy for a bit till I do a stud retorque. The truck is running good , and lots of heat from the heater. The heater core is higher than the engine, and a loss of heat is a sign of a problem.
#20
I did the grid heater delete, and throttle valve delete, when I did the retorque of the ARP studs. The grid heater is very restrictive, and so is the intake horn. I took a cone stone on an angle grinder and took some metal out. Finished it up with a round file and some flapper wheels.
I used the grid heater delete plate from Glacier diesel, it is a nice billet part and has a smooth raised part inside for more flow. The Glacier diesel grid heater relocate puts the grid in where the throttle valve was. It is a very neat set-up, and the new grid heater does not restrict airflow.
I am still using level 2 on the Smarty, and getting better fuel milage (on the overhead) than before the deletes. The head gasket is good , so far, but I am going to install a wastegate, before I turn up the wick some more.
I used the grid heater delete plate from Glacier diesel, it is a nice billet part and has a smooth raised part inside for more flow. The Glacier diesel grid heater relocate puts the grid in where the throttle valve was. It is a very neat set-up, and the new grid heater does not restrict airflow.
I am still using level 2 on the Smarty, and getting better fuel milage (on the overhead) than before the deletes. The head gasket is good , so far, but I am going to install a wastegate, before I turn up the wick some more.
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