Recommended upgrades with cam
#1
Recommended upgrades with cam
My friend just got a 92 ve motor to put in his chevy. He's doing 5x014 injectors, studs, intake, 3200 rpm spring. And also wants to do a cam. Would 60lbs springs and stock push rods be safe with a street cam or should he do hd pushrods and 110 valve springs. Also gonna do timins in pump and a fuel pin.
#3
Recommended upgrades with cam
Centerline the cam, best way to get the most out of a cam. Would probably decrease the chance of a piston smacking a valve. Most "fly cut" their pistons. But that's more aggressive cams, they advertise you can get by camming a completely stock engine with a "regrind" or "street" cam
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#4
#5
its like timing the cam to the crank. garunteeing its in perfect time rather than assuming the keyway is the proper setting.
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basically, fit a degree wheel to the crank snout. install a dial indicator thru the injector hole on #1 piston. roatate the engine until the dial indicator stops moving (maximum piston upward travel) note the degree make on the crank where the dial indicator stopped moving. rotate the engine in the opposite direction until the dial indicator stops moving, note the degree mark. subtract one degree from the other and divide by two. that will give you the middle between the two points (perfect TDC where the crank journal is perfectly 90*) mark that position. now with engine rotating in the correct direction zero out the dial indicator for the IBC (inner base circle) of the cam (valve closed) set up the dial indicator on the back of a rocker and rotate the engine until you come back around to the mark for perfect TDC. note the amount of lift. compare it to the specs of the cam. by installing different keyways you can adjust the offset of the cam advancing or retarding the cam until you get maximum lift when the crank is is at perfect TDC. they sell kits on summit for centerlining a cam on a gasser and its virtually the same thing. most of them come with an instructional video. once you find your cams centerline note which degree offset was used to achieve maximum cam lift at TDC. then you can "toy" with different keyways to slightly advance your cam timing. your best bet will probably be just to centerline it. ive heard a good chunk of power (around 20 horse) can be gained just from an extra hour worth of work while installing your cam.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
basically, fit a degree wheel to the crank snout. install a dial indicator thru the injector hole on #1 piston. roatate the engine until the dial indicator stops moving (maximum piston upward travel) note the degree make on the crank where the dial indicator stopped moving. rotate the engine in the opposite direction until the dial indicator stops moving, note the degree mark. subtract one degree from the other and divide by two. that will give you the middle between the two points (perfect TDC where the crank journal is perfectly 90*) mark that position. now with engine rotating in the correct direction zero out the dial indicator for the IBC (inner base circle) of the cam (valve closed) set up the dial indicator on the back of a rocker and rotate the engine until you come back around to the mark for perfect TDC. note the amount of lift. compare it to the specs of the cam. by installing different keyways you can adjust the offset of the cam advancing or retarding the cam until you get maximum lift when the crank is is at perfect TDC. they sell kits on summit for centerlining a cam on a gasser and its virtually the same thing. most of them come with an instructional video. once you find your cams centerline note which degree offset was used to achieve maximum cam lift at TDC. then you can "toy" with different keyways to slightly advance your cam timing. your best bet will probably be just to centerline it. ive heard a good chunk of power (around 20 horse) can be gained just from an extra hour worth of work while installing your cam.
Last edited by tower_ofpower; 09-23-2011 at 11:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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CumminsKid6 (09-24-2011)
#7
You haven't said what your friend is doing with the truck. You haven't said what turbo(s) he's running.
If there's any chance the engine will be wound-up with big boost, he'd do well going with the better push-rods and springs. Keep in mind, with the bigger boost, there's just that much more pushing on the back-side of the intake valves. With that, there's an increased chance of floating the intake valves in that operating range.
If there's any chance the engine will be wound-up with big boost, he'd do well going with the better push-rods and springs. Keep in mind, with the bigger boost, there's just that much more pushing on the back-side of the intake valves. With that, there's an increased chance of floating the intake valves in that operating range.
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