head gasket blew on me, so im doing everything while im in there.

i have a few questions about a few items, and i'd like a few answers..

-do i really need a cam? my plans are for 700 hp max.. i think the stock cam will get me there.

-is a fluidampr a drop in balancer? as in bolt it up and torque it, and it's good to go? i know i might have to get the tach relocation kit. i will be spinning the motor to a max of 4k rpms.

anything else if anyone can think of it.

already have:
-studs
-hamilton 165 springs, 10* locks and retainers
-pushrods
-possibly fluidampr.

head is getting a valve job and seals etc. going to send the valve springs and retainers with the head to the machine shop for them to put them in.

 

Do you want a cam? You don't need any performance part, it's want. If you plan to spin large chargers or want any of the benefits of a cam then get one. They increase mpg, power and torque by a bit. About 50 and 100-150 ft lbs with a 188/220. Much faster spool. More usable power, cooler egt. Etc the performance is more in speed than actual power. So the question is do you want a cam or no. Ya you can hit 700 with a stock cam. But a Cammed 700 will be faster than a reg 700 plus the cam will get you 50 or so closer to that 700. I personally just bought a 188/220 lsa109 cam because I want that stuff and wanna spool a s464. As for the dampener I believe it is. I'm putting one on my buddies in spring.

 

Camshafts are a very difficult subject, no two people need the same cam,
Desired rpm range
Truck purpose
Driving habits
Power goals
Current modifications

Believe it or not, some people design a camshaft for there setup, that is when you are starting to get into engine builders and not built engines

So, is there an advantage in a cam? Yes.
But in order for us to help pick we need information. From turbo size/injector spray angle/timing/head porting and flow charts. Everything

Wpg, be careful just dropping that cam in, make sure to measure everything

 

I'll be calling Hamilton about proper specs with the head on the truck, got the cam and billet push rods for so cheap I couldn't pass it up. It's supposed to fit a stock truck and I have a slightly oversized hg.

 

With a thinker head gasket you are in the clear.
Valve recession = .055"
Piston protrusion = .018"
Install the cam on a 99ic
If it meets those specs, even with a thicker gasket. You should not have any issues with a 188/220.
When heads and blocks get decked and people don't check you can have some issues with that cam.
Zach will recommend pretty much the exact same thing.
Valves at .010 and .020 (he will mention it too)

 

Ya no measurements when the head was off. But I got .06 taken off and got a .10 over gasket so I'm .04 ahead which is hopefully enough. And I'll do the piston to valve clearance before install.

 

yes the damper is a drop in you will either have to relocate your tach or but the relocation kit.

While you have the head off take your measurements for a cam and write them down so you will always have them handy. If I were you I would leave the stock cam in there and port the head while its off and also o ring it.

 

do i really need a fluidampr? i will only be turning a max of 4k, and maybe 3k daily.. the stock one doesn't seem bad..

 

also, im doing studs, hamilton 165 beehives, pushrods.. i want to be able to turn 4k rpms and live. i turn 3500 ish right now.. i dont really think the fluidampr is needed.

 

Do I need a balanced bottom end with a girdle and main studs? No, but I'm glad to have the insurance