Personally, if it were my truck, I would un-do the wedges and stuff, put the wheel alignment back to stock, get it steering and driving right first. Then cross the drive shaft bridge when you come to it. Steering is more important anyway. If you need 4x4 all the time, all the more reason to put a proper drive shaft on there. Find a local driveline shop that knows what they are doing and ask them to build you a shaft. A shop here charged me $130 to make a new shaft, including new 1350 joint, yoke and re-using the existing cardan. High angle joints are expensive, and you'll probably need a new cardan too unless they think they can get away with clearancing it, so you're probably looking at >$200. But how much time and effort will you have to expend cutting the axle tubes?

I'm not trying to talk you into anything, just looking at the other option. Maybe 6" is too high for any u-joint at the stock caster, but I seriously doubt it.

 

Well, I could go that route. I'm going to do some geometry some time. Measure the wedge; figure out how many degrees the wedge actually raised the pinion. Most u-joints can handle around 30* continuously if irc... I could be way off. But I may be able to get away with an extended drive shaft. But if I do that; then the $180 of adjustable kingpins are useless. The new shaft I was looking at was 325 baseline. About the same as a reman plus core from any auto parts store. They'll replace it if you ever twist one off


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You need a driveline shop that builds custom shafts. They typically cater to wheelers, drag racing, stuff like that. There's no way a front shaft for that truck should be that high. Parts + markup and an hour's labor is all it should cost to weld one up and balance it.

I could see that $325 for ALL new parts inc. 1410 joints, yoke and cardan. Maybe. But a real driveline shop can look at it, measure and tell you what the options are.

 

Yeah, nothing like that around here. I know where there's one around where I used to live... 4 hours away . But yes; it's all new parts. 2" DOM tubing, double cardan joint. Everything fully assembled


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Started making the frame brace for where my track bar mounts to the frame tonight. Here's the starts of it.



and here's how its going to sit on the frame.


once I get the frame cleaned up and this welded in place more pics will be posted


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the two tacks on the flat was where I had a plate for my ground clamp to hang onto


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