Their adapter for 20" rims was broken so the truck couldn't be aligned today. I did however get my stabilizer hooked up today. I had the dual stabilizer set up before. All I did was turn the bracket up about 30* and move it as far over to the driver side as I could and clamped the other end to my drag link.


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I see no need for any alignment shop with these front ends. All they can do is tell you if something needs replaced and set the toe. That can be done close enough with a tape measure. I set mine to minimal toe, maybe 1/6" at the most. It tracks perfectly with normal tire wear.

 

i put caster camber pins in the lower kingpins. need to get the caster/camber set as close to factory as i can... it still handles like a bear. toe should be close, i used the factory tie rod to set the new one. steering is tight and my turning radius is awesome; but it still has no directional stability. (caster) and i want to set my camber correctly so my tires dont get chewed up @ around 350-400 a tire

 

How much lift did you put on and what size tire you running?

 

I don't think your adjustmenst will get you close to factory. What are they good for? 1.5*-2*?

If you want factory specs back your gonna need some shims or cut and rotate the outer C's.

 

6" lift and running 305/75R20. 20x12 rim. I may have it set at the highest amount of negative caster they can achieve as the wedges already put me close to the neutral/negative. I know negative caster is typical of vehicles with a manual steering box but atleast it'll give me some sort of directional stability. You're right Bobby; I may not be able to get it back into the positive and I'm not re-doing the inner C's if I can get this thing to trac straight in any other means. Thanks for the insight as always Bobby.


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I'm obviously not getting something here. Why is the alignment out? Due to something about the the lift?

 

The lower kingpins. Plus the lift. The springs have a wedge on the bottom that brings your pinion angle up so that your driveline isn't operating at harmful angles. This action will affect your caster which is a stability angle. (won't track straight or return to center when the wheel is released) the lower kingpins that I had purchased can be rotated to adjust caster/camber. Right now it's just assembled in theory to "the best position" but not the correct position.


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I kinda suspected that's what was going on. I think I might have looked into going with a new front drive shaft built with bigger, high-angle joints. You need a longer shaft with that much lift anyway.

 

Yeah; mine is about an inch and a half short. I found a site where the guy will build me a driveshaft for my application. He has a drive shaft that is a direct replacement that's supposed to be able to handle a 4" lift with ease.


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