Competition Engine Build
#21
Yes they do!!
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Personaly I'd ditch the regualtor on the air dog and do a boost referance regualtor. The higher the boost of course the higher the rpm and load= higher lift pump pressure and volume.
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Personaly I'd ditch the regualtor on the air dog and do a boost referance regualtor. The higher the boost of course the higher the rpm and load= higher lift pump pressure and volume.
Last edited by Jagsdiesel; 11-10-2010 at 09:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#22
And, for pulling I'm going to have address the driveline. Right now my tranny has all billet shafts except for the output... For pulling should I be looking into getting that output turned into a billet shaft, also I'm sure a 1 pc driveline would be more beefy when compared to the stock 2 pc. What would be a good way to go about driveshaft loops?
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How would I go about setting up a boost reference regulator? Sounds easy but better safe to ask the question then assume...
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How would I go about setting up a boost reference regulator? Sounds easy but better safe to ask the question then assume...
Last edited by rkadcock; 11-10-2010 at 09:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#23
for a 12mm p pump the .093 lines are too big IMO I would go with a set of .084's. Also the air dogg with the 40 psi spring will flow plenty of fuel. Mine never drops below 40 psi on a pull
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yes a billet output is a good idea
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yes a billet output is a good idea
Last edited by 94 12valve; 11-10-2010 at 09:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#24
And, for pulling I'm going to have address the driveline. Right now my tranny has all billet shafts except for the output... For pulling should I be looking into getting that output turned into a billet shaft, also I'm sure a 1 pc driveline would be more beefy when compared to the stock 2 pc. What would be a good way to go about driveshaft loops?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
How would I go about setting up a boost reference regulator? Sounds easy but better safe to ask the question then assume...
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
How would I go about setting up a boost reference regulator? Sounds easy but better safe to ask the question then assume...
#25
Not hard what so ever. I'll get a link to one and them tell you how to set it up. The thing we have found with them is everyone know large amounts of fuel kills turbo spool time. Yes I know with a p-pump its not as bad but still. This way you can hold fuel back and bring it on hard once the engine is spun up and ready to rock.
Thats what the afc is for
#26
#27
there is no reason to remove the afc on big power trucks, they just need to learn how to tune it. The fuel pressure needs to be kept up on these pumps or the risk of failure is high, starving the pump for fuel to control low end fueling does not sound like a good idea to me.
#28
#29
[QUOTE=rkadcock;650340]And, for pulling I'm going to have address the driveline. Right now my tranny has all billet shafts except for the output... For pulling should I be looking into getting that output turned into a billet shaft, also I'm sure a 1 pc driveline would be more beefy when compared to the stock 2 pc. What would be a good way to go about driveshaft loops?
as far as driveline goes my buddy drew has a pullin truck and has something called a reverser and a stick that controls his throttle idk much about that but just putting it out there im sure 94 12valve knows wat im talkin bout
as far as driveline goes my buddy drew has a pullin truck and has something called a reverser and a stick that controls his throttle idk much about that but just putting it out there im sure 94 12valve knows wat im talkin bout
#30
*rebuild kit - given
*Mahle 13:1 .020 over marine pistons with coated skirts,rings, etc (maybe fly cut) - Mahle 286210
*Diesel Pros street cam - Hamilton
*Main studs - not needed
*Girdle - Cummins block stiffener would be sufficient
*Coated bearings, rods, etc - coated rods?
*hd rod bolts - not needed
*Billet CR tappets - 24v tappets
*.120 chromoly pushrods - if you like
*S400 single charger (I'm thinking 72mm) - what class?
*14mm headstuds - 12mm
*5x.018 injectors - 140° cone angle
*.093 Fuel lines - not needed
*ATI or Fluidamper harmonic balancer - yes
*fully balanced bottom end - not needed, but not a poor choice
Then as far as my head goes
*O Ringed - ok
*milled intake manifold - not needed, but if you like
*Full P&P - ok
*Oversized valves - not needed, but if you like
*Hamilton HD springs and retainers - ok
*Individual runner intake plenum - not needed, but if you like
*Mahle 13:1 .020 over marine pistons with coated skirts,rings, etc (maybe fly cut) - Mahle 286210
*Diesel Pros street cam - Hamilton
*Main studs - not needed
*Girdle - Cummins block stiffener would be sufficient
*Coated bearings, rods, etc - coated rods?
*hd rod bolts - not needed
*Billet CR tappets - 24v tappets
*.120 chromoly pushrods - if you like
*S400 single charger (I'm thinking 72mm) - what class?
*14mm headstuds - 12mm
*5x.018 injectors - 140° cone angle
*.093 Fuel lines - not needed
*ATI or Fluidamper harmonic balancer - yes
*fully balanced bottom end - not needed, but not a poor choice
Then as far as my head goes
*O Ringed - ok
*milled intake manifold - not needed, but if you like
*Full P&P - ok
*Oversized valves - not needed, but if you like
*Hamilton HD springs and retainers - ok
*Individual runner intake plenum - not needed, but if you like
Heres how porting works. Everyone thinks its all about size of the runners going from intake to valve. Thats a very little part of the equation. Its mainly the efficentciy of the air from intake to valve. For instance a fully ported 12v head is a straight shot in and out for the most part with slight turns that are nice and smooth. A 24v head has more than one turn per runner and a very tight angle at the valve bowl. Thus creating friction in the air stream.
So II can get more flow out of a ported Cummins casting than Indy can out of a cathedral port billet head?
Last edited by Smokem; 11-10-2010 at 11:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost