Competition Engine Build
#12
11-10-2010, 03:33 PM
Also should I be looking at an intercooler upgrade for this build?
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Also, as far as gearing goes 4:56s with 35s work??
Last edited by rkadcock; 11-10-2010 at 03:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#13
11-10-2010, 04:08 PM
Diesel Bomber
#14
11-10-2010, 04:13 PM
Diesel Wrench
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I like the idea of puting the 24v head on! There is noway you can convince me that the 12v will out flow better then a 24v. Side by side stock not happening. So your on the right path!
Last edited by Rustin; 11-10-2010 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#15
11-10-2010, 04:20 PM
Diesel Bomber
I was thinking of a low compression because right now I'm seeing 80-85 psi of boost once that 480 lights, and I have my 64 wastegated at 25psi, so from what I understand is alot of the high boost guys run a lower compression to "compensate" for that but I'm also hoping with a full P&P I can drop my boost quite a bit. Also with a high timing wouldn't I want to run lower compression??
I'm definetly not an expert when it comes to building a competition enginem, and I'm going off of what I've read and seen, so please do school me, I'd appreciate the help.
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Think it'd be worth switching to a 24v head? I'm doing pistons anyways so that's no biggy, I'd just have to run 24v injectors and get different fuel ines to go from the pump to the head right??
I'm definetly not an expert when it comes to building a competition enginem, and I'm going off of what I've read and seen, so please do school me, I'd appreciate the help.
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Think it'd be worth switching to a 24v head? I'm doing pistons anyways so that's no biggy, I'd just have to run 24v injectors and get different fuel ines to go from the pump to the head right??
I'm not an expert either, but with the timing you want to run and still want to drive this thing on the street I think you should keep the CR up. Also if you do flycut the pistons that will lower the CR even more.
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No doubt WOP know their PowerStrokes However I have seen some of their Cummins builds! their claim to fame is powerstorkes. But they have a quiet, fan base of cummins builds! so they have the resources to help you out! I put them on par with schieds.
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I like the idea of puting the 24v head on! There is noway you can convince me that the 12v will out flow better then a 24v. Side by side stock not happening. So your on the right path!
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I like the idea of puting the 24v head on! There is noway you can convince me that the 12v will out flow better then a 24v. Side by side stock not happening. So your on the right path!
side by side stock for stock the 24v will out flow the 12v head ... but with a good port job the tables turn
Last edited by 94 12valve; 11-10-2010 at 04:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#16
11-10-2010, 04:44 PM
Diesel Bomber
#17
11-10-2010, 06:56 PM
Thats why I ask questions, and thanks for the info, so I guess the right path would be standard marine pistons that are cut... Having cut pistons when it's not needed won't have any ill effects right? I'm pretty much settled on the Diesel Pros street cam. It'd be cool to have the race cam but Im not going to be looking for more power after my build. And if I were to look for more power after this, I'll just throw a little nitrous into the mix..
#18
11-10-2010, 08:01 PM
Heres how porting works. Everyone thinks its all about size of the runners going from intake to valve. Thats a very little part of the equation. Its mainly the efficentciy of the air from intake to valve. For instance a fully ported 12v head is a straight shot in and out for the most part with slight turns that are nice and smooth. A 24v head has more than one turn per runner and a very tight angle at the valve bowl. Thus creating friction in the air stream.
#19
11-10-2010, 09:00 PM
Diesel Bomber
Thats why I ask questions, and thanks for the info, so I guess the right path would be standard marine pistons that are cut... Having cut pistons when it's not needed won't have any ill effects right? I'm pretty much settled on the Diesel Pros street cam. It'd be cool to have the race cam but Im not going to be looking for more power after my build. And if I were to look for more power after this, I'll just throw a little nitrous into the mix..
sounds good, fly cut pistons and huge cams are really not ment for street trucks ( not saying it can't or is not being done). The closer you can keep the CR to normal the better street driving will be for you, also the truck will love nitrous with the higher CR.
Heres how porting works. Everyone thinks its all about size of the runners going from intake to valve. Thats a very little part of the equation. Its mainly the efficentciy of the air from intake to valve. For instance a fully ported 12v head is a straight shot in and out for the most part with slight turns that are nice and smooth. A 24v head has more than one turn per runner and a very tight angle at the valve bowl. Thus creating friction in the air stream.
#20
11-10-2010, 09:05 PM
Keep the good information coming in. I've already gotten a good grasp on which way I'm going to go.
Definetly sticking with a high CR and 12v head. I know I won't be seeing any increase in power but the .093 lines, should I keep those or ditch them? Also, my Airdog 150 has the 40psi spring in it, but I'm kind of worried that after the rebuild it won't be able to keep, am I just over thinking it or should I be looking at something bigger?
Definetly sticking with a high CR and 12v head. I know I won't be seeing any increase in power but the .093 lines, should I keep those or ditch them? Also, my Airdog 150 has the 40psi spring in it, but I'm kind of worried that after the rebuild it won't be able to keep, am I just over thinking it or should I be looking at something bigger?
