3 came with the kit plus the biggest one that was already in there

 

when you did the spring swap did you come in the side plug or through the top where the afc is?

 

came through the side. Stuck a magnent to the stud and grabbed all the shims with a pick and pulled them out over the magnent so nothing could fall inside the pump

 

if you slowly bring the rpms up does it rev up well?
if you however smack the throttle you get a big studder and lots of white smoke?

i take gov springs all the way down and loosen if i have to i normally can get six clicks after initial.

i just had a mack in the shop that ran well started in sub zero weather without being plugged in but white smoked like mad and broke up if you smacked the throttle. we just rebuilt the pump a few weeks back and had turned him up just a bit. found out that we had the pump gear a tooth off and had timing around 5* it wanted to be at 11*. my point is your situation sounds incredibly similiar. i would pin time the engine and pump and see if it has slipped. it wount take you but a few miniutes and you can mark that off your list. i bet your timing tab is pointed to the top of the window though, and just a few * out.

 

well I just got a timing kit and I got everything where I need to be (accessably and ready to time) but I just need that extra hand to turn the engine over under the truck.

And yes if I slowly rev its smooth. If I mat it it pours black for a sec and then solid white. but both ways about 18-2000 its popping like hell.

I was thinking that on the 6 clicks, I was tempting to just start clicking away until I got it up. Only thing that stopped me is. considering the big spring or idle spring I guess... If its real tight will it still idle right? OR can I add some stock shims back into the other springs. This kit was from PEAK performance. Id never heard of them

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as far as timing being set, the videos of "timing in 40 mins" is it a pretty accurate video or is there anything I should do different?

 

mine are peaks, from years ago and are shimmed out. to tight on the idle spring (largest) and it wont idle right.

just pin the engine and pump and see if the timing pin is in the window. you might not need to piddle with it. extra timing WONT fix this problem if it hasnt slipped. DONT FIX WHATS NOT BROKE!!!! find this problem then mess with some extra timing if you so choose. i want you to simply check the current timing to see if it has slipped.

and i use you-tube for music not for turning wrenches? cant help you there

but timing from the balancer takes about 15min and timing from the plunger takes and hour or so.

 

I know you said the shutdown goes all the way up but does it stay there after the truck starts?

 

We'll I got it straightened out finally! I haven't had much time off work until today. After turning to 6 clicks it still ran the same checked timing and it was fine so i added 3* timing and put her up to 3800. It still breaks up just a tiny bit at about 2500 if I am slowly free revving. But, I've got some chewed up DV Orings and a leaky 1 injector at the horse shoe washer. I didn't think about getting any until I had it all apart. But 10 times better!