He'll still need new injectors....
I say sell it and buy a different one.

 

buying a ford or dmax wont fix anything. The 7.3s were good motors and the dmaxs are too, but they are so expensive to work on, and they are simply not as stoutly built as a 5.9. Look at how much hp you can get w/o getting into the motor except maybe head studs if you're pushin a ton of boost. People can claim what they want, but when is the last time you heard of a Cummins motor blowing up that had good oil and antifreeze in it that wasnt heavily modified? I personally know a guy w/a '90 dually w/1.1million miles on the clock, never been into engine. Starts perfect on a cold morning, unlike the 6.0s. Dmaxs are a damn good motor, better than powerstrokes. But, for my money ill go w/the one proven to be much more reliable than any other. For some, powerstrokes or dmaxs may be the best way to go, most people dont need a truck thatll go a million miles, they'll trade it in long before that. But, i cant afford a low mileage truck, and if im buying high mileage, i know which way im going.

 

Id reblead them really good and run it for a day check the level at lunch time and then when you get home at night.

 

Quit your complaining! :pc:

I've blown up the bottom end of my motor, 2 trannies, the turbo, and the front axle. Not to mention one track bar falling out, 2 stretched throttle cables, a rebuilt cab from the wreck, cruise control cable, drivers side yoke, a sped sensor, 2 TPS's, and the trans. temp. sender.

Thats just the stuff that ISN'T suppose to break for the majority of the vehicle life. Ya cain't count the stuff that just fails under normal use; starters, batteries, altenators, u-joints, brakes, calipers, etc. An excessive failure maybe like multipule starters but everything wears out eventually.

 

I used 2 batteries every 2 years, 2 different trucks, finally bit the bullet and put in gelcell NXDT34 Orbital units. So far two years later they are good as gold, so now the test begins. Pro side is they are nearly immune to vibration and can be mounted upside down if that suits your fancy (no liquid). Con side they are about $100 each! They crank like a pro, and are smaller.

 

I've got 350k on my original starter and alternator :P
Only had to replace one u-joint.
And of course a hand full of LP's and 2 IP's.. can't win em all.

 

Talk about digging up the past.


Starter contacts 20.00 dollars
Shut off solenoid 200.00
Being able to say I have a million mile pump Priceless