No i swapped injectors and it stayed #1. Like earlier in the thread when everything was dry of oil could the lifter be bad for the intake. My exhaust is good due to unburned diesel smell. How hard is a lifter swap? Ive never done one.

 

I seriously doubt that's your issue. You've got good compression. A tappet swap involves pulling the cam and is a job that requires a good bit of disassembly. You can pull your valve cover and rule it out in about 15 minutes.

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What do I check with valve cover off? Rocker arm movement? Sounds? Either way i am running out of things to check.

 

Exactly. Pull the cover, either use a dial indicator or your eyes to verify the rockers for number one match the rest in lift.

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Ok will check when i get home. And what about electric and computers are those possible? And would that test deem the cam and tappets bad? And if the bearing wore out ruining the cam possible in the front?

 

All of the above are rated from not possible to extremely unlikely.
Did you have a misfire before changing the pump?

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Just talked to a machinist and diesel mech. they are leaning towards stuck valve from ware and having open when parked for 5 years. Then it got shut without oil on startup and got stuck. But i will need to check and probably pull the head. And no it ran perfect 5 years ago before parking. It went out then due to low fuel pressure. I have a gauge now running 15psi with a Fass 150.

 

It's real easy to confirm that. Even after setting years I would be really suprised. If it did stick it likely flattened the lobe and trashed a tappet.
And you would have low compression. I feel like your getting a bit ahead of yourself. When you talk to someone about your truck their likely to follow your lead on ideas. So if you call someone and say truck misfiring, funny noise initially on start up and injector and pump check out - they'd likely lead to a mechanical failure. Without looking at the truck it's hard to avoid that conclusion. However working on this truck specifically for a while you learn the common failures and not so common failures. You learn the way they respond to failures. Not saying I have the answers you need, just saying that type of failure while maintaining good compression is unlikely. As I said the test to determine that issue is very simple and shouldn't take much longer than removing the valve cover. It would also likely mangle a pushrod which would be obvious. Just don't put all your eggs in that basket yet.
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My money would be on somthing not letting the intake valve open as it should compression being good but you could always have someone bump the starter with the valve cover off go see if you got movement on that valve when i bult my 632bbc we had a snaped rocker arm that was giving us heck till we found it and everything sounded good had good compression but miss fire on cylinder 7 may be something along those lines good compression only means the valve has a good seat the onlh othere possibility would be something with the pump this is my third 2nd gen and i wouldnt think it would be a ecm issue

 

From my experience a non functioning intake valve lowers compression and causes a abnormal thump when starting as well as exhaust pulsations.

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