12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

timing 911 need help asap

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  #11  
Old 10-24-2009, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dan33klein
well i know thats the way everyone told me to find top dead center. and i used my method for every cylinder when i changed my valve springs. and im sure the cylinder was at tdc cause the valve only moved 1/4 inch till it hit the piston. they didnt drop.
i'm glad it worked for you; but
if the exhaust rocker JUST starts to move the piston is JUST starting on its upward stroke on its exhaust stroke; after that point if you rotate the engine 180* you'll be top dead exhaust and compression on 1 and 6. valve overlap with an aftermarket cam; i have no idea... screw driver or dial indicator in the injector hole will absolutely work... sometimes preferable if there is any kind of doubt.

to adress the other issue at hand; 17 is a wee bit high for some guys preferences. most like 16.. 16.5ish. i think you should be alright around 17 if you dont really tow anything. other than that you should see a bump in fuel economy and reduction in smoke and i believe lower EGT's... if i'm wrong someone will step up... glad you got it back together.

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Originally Posted by dan33klein
when, you rotate the motor wait for the intake valve to go down then come back up. when its at the top go slow and as soon as you see the exhaust valve barly start moving stop! your at tdc on that cylinder
were you rotating the engine in the correct direction? if your spinning CCW (reverse running direction) then you description would work... now clockwise; the correct running direction for the 5.9 then my description is correct...
 

Last edited by tower_ofpower; 10-24-2009 at 08:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #12  
Old 10-24-2009, 10:43 PM
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I tow a 4000 pound trailer quite often is that bad
 
  #13  
Old 10-24-2009, 11:22 PM
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hmmm i dont want to tell you the wrong information bud; i just know when ever ya bump the timing you have to watch it when you tow. you may be alright as your sig doesnt say anything about an aftermarket turbo, and 4,000 pounds really isnt bad... i'd probably say that your next bomb should be head studs
 
  #14  
Old 10-25-2009, 12:10 AM
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Added Timing+ Added Fuel=Higher Cylinder Pressures....

This could mean premature headgasket failure if your not studed and oringed.

As already stated...16-16.5 degree with a stock headgasket and 40psi is living on the edge.........Andy
 
  #15  
Old 10-25-2009, 12:50 AM
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I have sittin in my toolbox a set of 14mm headstuds and an iron giant 2 clutch I'm takin it easy until I have 500 more for the sled puller 66 turbo and then I have to come up with the 1200 bucks to get it all put in hopefully by xmas I've got my wastegate unblocked and set to open at 12 pounds of boost as a just in case
 
  #16  
Old 10-25-2009, 06:31 PM
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smart guy... only prob is; as andy stated o ringing is the best route when combined with head studs. now if your going to throw a turbo at it with a stock HG, and studs i'd be limiting it at 40psi... i'm pretty sure any higher w/o o ringing can ensure you'll be replacing the HG
 
  #17  
Old 10-29-2009, 10:30 AM
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Wouldn't havin the head fire ringed be better
 
  #18  
Old 10-29-2009, 10:35 AM
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Not for daily driving. O-rings are safe 80 PSI , of course with timing and egt's in check!
 
  #19  
Old 10-29-2009, 10:50 AM
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Well its been almost a week I haven't seen 1000 yet pullled my trailer up to truckee last night and she ran fine maybe I just got lucky also not having all that crap in front of my intercoller helps a ton too I guess but only time will tell
 
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