2400 is usually used on rotary engines, a guy i work with has that in his car and i have seen 2100* kinda scary seeing that on a gauge

 

ha i bet

 

i've run the crap out of mine and as soon as i let off the pedal it dropped right off to around 300,it may take it a few minutes after you shut it off to go to zero,but you've got to figure it takes a minute for that manifold to cool down.

 

ya thats what i figured. since the whole manifold heats up it then has to cool off.

 

I WOULD CONSIDER 1050 GOOD NOT BAD WHY WOULD YOU WANT HIGHER EGTS.CUMMINS RECOMENDS NO HIGHER THEN 1250. AND IT ALL SO DEPENDS ON WHERE YOUR PROBE IS INSTALLED IF IT IS IN THE MANIFOLD THEN YES THATS FINE.IF IT IS IN THE TURBO DOWN PIPE THEN YOU CAN ADD 300 DEGREES TO THAT AND ALL OF A SUDDEN YOU ARE AT 1350 DEGREES INSTEAD OF 1050.AND TRUST ME THOUGHS INJECTORS WILL RAISE YOUR EGTS ENOUGH TO PUT YOU REALLY CLOSE OR EVEN ABOVE 1250.MARINE INJECTORS HAVE A DIFFERANT SPRAY PATTERN AND ARE NATORIOUS FOR EXCESSIVE EGTS.

 

what are you running for boost?

 

idk yet, glow shift sent me a 30psi boost gauge so they are sending the right one right now

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no i have it installed right into the exhaust manifold.

 

Found an 8" or so long crack in the block on my motor. Then went to take off the harmonic and the motor spun over. Figured what the hey I'll see if it'll start. She did! I've never heard a motor knock so hard in my life!

So now I have a motor that is knocking like a sob and has a big *** crack in the block. So What do you do? FINISH IT! Held it to the floor, 4500 or so rpm's, and the 2400* gauge was BURRIED! Then it locked.

She's done for sure now. #5 piston is not even recognizable anymore and #6 was on its way to the same way.

Funny thing is... I let it cool a couple hours and its free again!

*put flame suit on*