Custom age ARP's and a stock head gasket may get you where you are safe. I was flashing 54 PSI with 425 ARP's and a stock gasket without issue. Took 64 to pop it before doing the orings.

fire rings will never make it on the street ..... tons of retorquing required while O rings require a few initial retorques the firerings always seem to work them selves loose and then crack or some one mis-machine's the block a little bit and then ur really up a creek and looking for a new block ..... make sure its done correct ... I too planning on new head and O ring ... 60 psi is gonna happen .:choochoo:

I have arp 2000 and a stock head gasket. And it blew. Either I spend 1,000 on 625's or do some head work and do o rings or fire rings for half that.

make sure the head and deck are flat could be your problem

I agree ... not machined right and that will do it everytime ...... how much timing are u running ? and you do know not to lug it down and the nail it to the floor right ...... that will cause a major spike in cylinder pressure causing a HG to fail real fast also ... its better to over rev than to lug it down ...:rocking:

Well the local shop does fire ring only as well. What's up with fire ring only shops. So new plan. I'm having the head checked to make sure it's a flat surface. If not I will have it milled then. Getting a new head gasket from cummins once I know how much they have to mill it. Timing is at 17.5 now that I installed the twins. Before that when I had the silver 64 it was at 25 degrees. Blow out happened two weeks after twins installed at timing set at 17.5. Could have started before the swop. I don't lug the truck. It's hard on the clutch as well.

If they can cut fire rings they most definitely can cut o-rings. Think I'd take a look at drive pressures and make sure they look ok. Make sure the surfaces are good and clean to!

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I think your timing is still too much .... I'm @ 15.5 and i poped mine ....

Drive pressure will not blow a HG , It will infact increase the EGT's and cause a warped head "possibly" ..... I think he's gonna find that the deck or the head is way out and will need to be machined .

What did you torque your studs to and did you do re-torques ? and how far did you go in between re-torques ?

When I first got the truck the timing was out. I set it at 18 and moved the fuel plate forward some. The head studs were not installed at that time. Truck was stock. I drove it like that for months with no problems. Then I did all the mods in my sig minus the twins. I put a silver 64 on at that time. When I got it back the timing was off again. For the truck to run right with that stupid turbo the timing was set on 25 with the arp 2000 head studs. As soon as I installed the twins I put the timing at 17.5. Two weeks later popped the head gasket. So I don't think timing was the issue. Maybe warped head. And I didn't do any retorqueing after I got my truck back. I didn't know that I needed to do that until doing some research after it happened. So maybe that was the problem. When you say the deck might be messed up are you meaning the block? I pray to god that isn't the case. I will have it checked. I'm just going to mill the head and put a cummins gasket in it for now. I guess this is the price you pay to play the hp game. If I knew all this was going to happen I would have left the truck as it was at 18* and the plate moved forward with straight exhaust and everything else stock.

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The egts have never been over 1200 no matter how hard I drive it.

Ok yeah I beleive your non-retorque was your issue because after a few heat cycles things move a bit ... thats why the re-tq is REALLY important ... and now you know ...

yeah I beleive your timing now wasnt the issue ... the torque on the head will kill it everytime ... now ya know ...

I would have the Deck checked just for peace of mine ... a machinst can come and look at it mobile .... i have done the check my self with a calibrated machinst straight ... easy as pie ..:tu: