I didn't mean for my post to make you sound like you were discrediting there work. I was just wondering why they don't o ring. Plus when using a fire ring or o ring, it's only going to work properly when machined right I would think. The thing is I have three options to fix this problem. 1. Scheid's - fire ring only (having it 3-4 days) 4 hours away.
2. Haisleys - fire ring only (having it 3-4 weeks) 5 hours away 3. Local shop - o ring (having it 2-3 weeks) 1 hour away.

Local shop really didn't gain my confidence when talking to them on the phone. Kept sending me to another person to get answers. I think I talked to 3 or 4 different people.
And was told freight would probably cost 3-400 dollars total to have it shipped. So 150-200 for one way. I can save that dropping it off myself.

Sounds like Scheids is the way to go either way .. good reputable company like that ...:tu:

Wonder if they will guarantee it with my set up. And no additional mods.

I'm sure they would let you know either way ...

Is machining the head the same for o ring as it is fire ring? If the fire ring ended up giving out could I just put an o ring in?

Not the same ring protrusion but im not sure if the cut depth/width is the same.
Most shops myself included don't warranty performance work against failure. They likely will offer some type of protection against failure in workmanship and the vehicle shoild leave and operate normally but aside from that there likely wouldn't warranty a blown gasket.
Too many variables.

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Well I'm just taking the head to them so hopefully the guy I let do my work won't mess up putting it back on.

In that case you wouldn't really have any warranty. If you got back and the ring protrusion was wrong or the surface job was bad they would likwly stand behind it. Otherwise your on your own.

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the cut and width are not the same for o rings and fire rings. the fire rings are deeper and wider cut. Since it sounds like your dead set on fire rings make sure you get the gasket and fire rings before you send the head off or make sure they send you gasket and fire rings they cut the head for. There are different thickness fire rings available if you get the wrong one it will never seal right.

You will also need to head cycle the head a few times, torque the head down cold, run it a few times and retorque cold again. You will also need a good set of studs the normal arp 425's will not cut it at least a 625 IMO is what you need.

If you were to go with o rings you could use the standard head gasket with a set of 425 studs and be just fine with no retorques. With the motor still in the truck an o ringed head is much easier to install, you will have to make sure with your fire rings that they stay in the head groove while you set the head on the truck. It has been my personal experience that its best to stick the fire ring in the groove and set the head on as opposed to setting them on the deck and trying to line them up while setting the head on.

I'm not dead set on fire rings. It's really my only option I have. Unless you know a shop that's with in driving range from Frankfort ky. It's the only truck I have so I can't go without it for weeks.

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I just got back home from a mini vacation. And on the way back my wife's van started having a hot burning smell to it when we got out of it. I took it to a friend and while I was there I told him about blowing a head gasket on my truck and having to machine the head and cut oring or fire rings in it. Funny thing is that there is a automotive machine shop about 7 miles from my house that a few diesel guys have taken there heads to. He does both fire ring and o ring. So I'm going to be calling him tomorrow. Unlucky and lucky at the same time.