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Looking for a nice trailer harness

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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 08:44 PM
  #11  
ndurbin's Avatar
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From: Lake City, KS
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Yes, simple is always good. I'll haveta keep this in mind when I undertake rewiring my stock trailer. But that'll be after I get the rest of the bottom and floor replaced, lovely design S&H has on mine.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 08:51 PM
  #12  
Uncle Bubba's Avatar
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Should be pretty easy for the floor. On the front or back end of the floor it should just be a piece of angle that the flooring sits on top of and then over the top of the flooring is just a piece of flat stock spot welded in place. You just cut those spot welds with a body grinder and all your floor planks fall right into place. In my young and dumb days I use to use a floor jack under the middle of the trailer to put enough of a bow in the planks that they would slip into place and then lower the jack. As the center of the board dropped and went straight they would fall into that groove, but that got old after doing a few of them.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 08:52 PM
  #13  
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What's wrong with running them in series? Are the last bulbs quite a bit dimmer than the first ones?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:02 PM
  #14  
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junction box seems like a nice idea
i would just have to get a couple 2 wire setups and 3 wire setups to run from there
thanks
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:11 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Alt-Tab
What's wrong with running them in series? Are the last bulbs quite a bit dimmer than the first ones?
Nothin wrong with it as long as you use heavy enough wire. This is how most new trailers are wired. But it sure is a buggar when you are having problems to track things down especially when wires are run through box tubing or something and you can't get to them with a tester. With this junction box you can test every light from one place. You can even run a jumper from a battery and light each light up individually to test them if you needed to.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:16 PM
  #16  
ndurbin's Avatar
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From: Lake City, KS
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Originally Posted by 99 cummins
Should be pretty easy for the floor. On the front or back end of the floor it should just be a piece of angle that the flooring sits on top of and then over the top of the flooring is just a piece of flat stock spot welded in place. You just cut those spot welds with a body grinder and all your floor planks fall right into place. In my young and dumb days I use to use a floor jack under the middle of the trailer to put enough of a bow in the planks that they would slip into place and then lower the jack. As the center of the board dropped and went straight they would fall into that groove, but that got old after doing a few of them.
Nope, I think it's been replaced atleast once before.

What they (S&H) did on mine was take the 14ga. (really thin sutff) metal for the side panels continue it down and bend about 4" over and mounted the floor to it. One lil rust spot quickly gets bigger in that situtation. The only thing that gives it support are 4 peices of 3" channel iron (at the front, rear, and where each center gate is) and the tubing that makes the arches the roof sits on. I let it get to bad on this last round of moving cows around I cut to tight and about tore off the LR leaf spring mount. Hell the only extra support where the axles are is a 1" piece of angle iron. It's a "Bull Hauler Special" model sure aint built to haul em very well IMHO.

I have already replaced the rear 1/4 or so as it was really bad (could stick your foot thru the gap when a cow was in there) and I should have gone on up to where the front axle mount is but I didn't have the time. I cut off the thin stuff and then welded lengths of 4" anlge iron inbetween the arches and bolted the floor to that with carriage bolts.
 
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