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All block lift

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  #1  
Old 06-13-2011, 09:14 PM
Ac6080's Avatar
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Default All block lift

first off I know that blocks under your front springs are a bad idea. But I was thinking that a set of front and rear ladder bars would prevent any spring twist and would keep the front axle in the right spot even if you get on the brakes hard because the ladder bars would not allow them to move. I am only talking about like a 2 inch block under the front springs just to level my truck a little bit without buying new springs for the front. the only reason that i would rather do ladder bars instead of new springs even though they cost the about same is because i can make a nice set of ladder bars and i cant make a new set of springs. Thanks in advanced for your thoughts
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:34 AM
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Most states do not allow front blocks. The ladder bars may keep front to back axle wrap under control but would do nothing for keeping the blocks from spitting out the side given the right circumstances. If you are only looking for 2 inches just get a set of add a leafs and be done with it.
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by vrodrex
If you are only looking for 2 inches just get a set of add a leafs and be done with it.
Add a leafs are cheap enough. You can usually get an entire set of leveling springs for cheap enough too.
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by vrodrex
Most states do not allow front blocks. The ladder bars may keep front to back axle wrap under control but would do nothing for keeping the blocks from spitting out the side given the right circumstances. If you are only looking for 2 inches just get a set of add a leafs and be done with it.
Yep, its more a side to side thing with front blocks.
 
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Old 07-04-2011, 02:21 AM
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Since you have the ability to fab ladder bars, then Id just move the spring mounts 2'' lower on the frame. Its free, easy, and still safe
 
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Old 07-04-2011, 03:02 AM
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Your an if you want to run front blocks, especially with ladder bars. All you would accomplish under hard steering and braking is to preload the springs going into the maneuver and unload rapidly coming out and have the housing trying the twist itself apart and royally **** your steering.
If you have the ability to fab ladder bars just throw in an add a leaf or hell even recurve your stock springs.
 
  #7  
Old 07-04-2011, 07:55 AM
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Default Too Easy

Originally Posted by muffinman944
...move the spring mounts 2'' lower on the frame.
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_153.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_154.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_156.jpg

1", 2", 3", whatever turns your crank. Just make sure to use higher grade material for the shackles if they need to be more than an inch longer than stock.
 
  #8  
Old 07-04-2011, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by godblessmud
Your an if you want to run front blocks, especially with ladder bars. All you would accomplish under hard steering and braking is to preload the springs going into the maneuver and unload rapidly coming out and have the housing trying the twist itself apart and royally **** your steering.
If you have the ability to fab ladder bars just throw in an add a leaf or hell even recurve your stock springs.


https://www.dieselbombers.com/web-si...-new-post.html
 
  #9  
Old 07-11-2011, 05:44 PM
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get the 2'' blocks and drop pitman arm -if you dont get the pitman arm you will lose some turning radius to the right______have mine going on 6 years of off roading and towing. never had any problems. they may work for a spring manufacturer an you are taking food out of their mouths buy not buying a lift kit . all they know is what they read in forums . you will have to change the one stud bolt . if you never done it. dont put out miss information .they think 2'' is like lifting it 12'' .if you dont have a engineering degree it cant be done.
 
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