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Homemade traction bars.

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  #21  
Old 10-04-2010, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by PLMCRZY
Ya thats what i figured, sure launches alot better that wheel hop got scary!
Keep an eye on your welds, especially if you're beatin' on it.
 
  #22  
Old 10-04-2010, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by NadirPoint
Keep an eye on your welds, especially if you're beatin' on it.
I dont think the trac bars are under alot of vibration so my welds should be fine.
 
  #23  
Old 10-04-2010, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PLMCRZY
I dont think the trac bars are under alot of vibration so my welds should be fine.
I'm not talking about vibration. Do yourself a favor and run this simple test: unbolt the fronts, pile a half ton of whatever in the bed, then try to bolt the fronts back up.

You should understand what I'm talking about after that.
 
  #24  
Old 10-04-2010, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by NadirPoint
I'm not talking about vibration. Do yourself a favor and run this simple test: unbolt the fronts, pile a half ton of whatever in the bed, then try to bolt the fronts back up.

You should understand what I'm talking about after that.
Luckily i never put 1000 pounds in the bed.....
 
  #25  
Old 10-04-2010, 01:24 PM
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If your launchin hard enough to need traction bars, then your puttin 1000 pounds on that rear suspension. There's gonna be a lot of force on those anchor points.
 
  #26  
Old 10-04-2010, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Bubba
If your launchin hard enough to need traction bars, then your puttin 1000 pounds on that rear suspension. There's gonna be a lot of force on those anchor points.
True, well this weekend i guess we will see how they hold up with slicks and a 10 psi launch.
 
  #27  
Old 10-04-2010, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by PLMCRZY
I dont know what else you would use?!

real heim joints and threaded tube would be the best, the tractor links have an extremly course thread on them, where the heims have a fine thread.
 
  #28  
Old 10-04-2010, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by PLMCRZY
Luckily i never put 1000 pounds in the bed.....
Or, you could do it they way I did when I was testing this set I built for the 1st Gen:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_134.jpg

Maybe you are still just missing the point?
 
  #29  
Old 10-04-2010, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by NadirPoint
Or, you could do it they way I did when I was testing this set I built for the 1st Gen:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_134.jpg

Maybe you are still just missing the point?
Not to be rude but these arent my first set of bars to make. Ive made several on other trucks including my own. Not ONE truck has came back to me asking me to reweld. Two of the trucks i have done bars on are pullers and workers during the week. I think your worried to much, we get that alot in structural steel especially the contractors always thinking its not good enough. I am not missing the point, but its a point that im not worried about. Just saying not trying to be rude but look where im coming from.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by DieselCrawler
real heim joints and threaded tube would be the best, the tractor links have an extremly course thread on them, where the heims have a fine thread.
I dont plan on adjusting them to much. Plus i didnt wanna spend ALOT, like i said in my earlier post ive made a few with the same top links and they are working great.
 

Last edited by PLMCRZY; 10-04-2010 at 02:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #30  
Old 10-04-2010, 03:02 PM
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Long as you don't mind driving a truck with the rear suspension bound up like that, cool, go for it. Just sayin'....

But trust me, if you work it hard enough or do enough boosed launches those welds will eventually start cracking and let go. Seen it many times.
 


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