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Homemade traction bars.

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  #11  
Old 10-04-2010, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Bubba
I never argue my point or try to prove a bunch a scientific formulas wrong, I'm just not that smart. I don't pretend to have any great knowledge of anything and have always been the first to admit when it when I'm shown to be wrong. all I offer what I've learned and experienced in my 40 some years of experience in the ag industry and 10 plus years in the trailer business.

I've fixed many a trailers and hitches due to bolt failure of grade 8's that have exploded and shattered. I've seen grade 5's rust through and even been cut through, but never have seen one just snap in these applications.

But to each there own, doesn't always have to be a right and wrong, just different ways of doing the same things.
Cheaper brand of grade 8s by chance? I'd take a high quality grade 5 over a cheap grade 8.
 

Last edited by kazairl; 10-04-2010 at 10:14 AM.
  #12  
Old 10-04-2010, 10:16 AM
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those are tractor 3 pt hitch links, arent they?
 
  #13  
Old 10-04-2010, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselCrawler
those are tractor 3 pt hitch links, arent they?
Ya top links, got everything at tractor supply including my bolts....
 
  #14  
Old 10-04-2010, 10:27 AM
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thats what i thought. my front track bar is made from one of them. . isnt the best but it works.
 
  #15  
Old 10-04-2010, 10:30 AM
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i would like to build a set of these some day. how bad does it affect the suspension? is it applicable for a daily driver.
 
  #16  
Old 10-04-2010, 10:33 AM
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theres tons of people driving with trac bars everyday.
 
  #17  
Old 10-04-2010, 10:36 AM
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Grade 8 being inferior to grade 5 in any way, shape or form is an old wive's tale. Always use grade 8 for any application where you anticipate high load or strength requirement.

Suspension bind is what's causing it to seem to ride rougher.
 
  #18  
Old 10-04-2010, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselCrawler
thats what i thought. my front track bar is made from one of them. . isnt the best but it works.
I dont know what else you would use?

Originally Posted by NadirPoint
Grade 8 being inferior to grade 5 in any way, shape or form is an old wive's tale. Always use grade 8 for any application where you anticipate high load or strength requirement.

Suspension bind is what's causing it to seem to ride rougher.
Ya thats what i figured, sure launches alot better that wheel hop got scary!
 
  #19  
Old 10-04-2010, 11:30 AM
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also plmcrazy what size and kind of tubing did you use and did you just cut off the end of the tractor top link and weld it into the pipe? thanks for the info
 
  #20  
Old 10-04-2010, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by FIRST GEN. JAKE
also plmcrazy what size and kind of tubing did you use and did you just cut off the end of the tractor top link and weld it into the pipe? thanks for the info
To be honest i dont know what diameter the inside of the pipe is. I didnt even measure that. I know overall they are 56" long. The top link i just cut in half and then slid it into the pipe like you said. The tubing is pretty thick i would say 3/16s, it maybe overkill but thats all i could find to fit the top link in.
 


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