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Homemade traction bars.
Needed some traction bars bad to get rid of that wheel hop i had at the track.
Tell me what ya think Mounts http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...9/DSCN1933.jpg http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...9/DSCN1934.jpg Little welding to the frame for the front mounts http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...9/DSCN1937.jpg Painted and mounted http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...9/DSCN1958.jpg http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...9/DSCN1959.jpg Sure launches alot smoother now, does ride a hair rougher though... |
:rocking::tu:
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Looks good:tu:
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They look great. My monitor is to dark to tell, are those grade 8 bolts. If so I wouldn't go there. Grade 8's are great for clamping force but they suck for shearing forces. They're so strong and hard that they are brittle and shatter.
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Originally Posted by Uncle Bubba
(Post 630769)
They look great. My monitor is to dark to tell, are those grade 8 bolts. If so I wouldn't go there. Grade 8's are great for clamping force but they suck for shearing forces. They're so strong and hard that they are brittle and shatter.
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They look good
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Also the traction bars arent under that much stress! |
I never argue my point or try to prove a bunch a scientific formulas wrong, I'm just not that smart. I don't pretend to have any great knowledge of anything and have always been the first to admit when it when I'm shown to be wrong. all I offer what I've learned and experienced in my 40 some years of experience in the ag industry and 10 plus years in the trailer business.
I've fixed many a trailers and hitches due to bolt failure of grade 8's that have exploded and shattered. I've seen grade 5's rust through and even been cut through, but never have seen one just snap in these applications. But to each there own, doesn't always have to be a right and wrong, just different ways of doing the same things. |
besides the color, it looks good man :tu:
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