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Project Rusty Revival (56k no way!)

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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 08:17 AM
  #121  
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Nice progress........It's been so long since you last posted I thought you had gotten lost in a cornfield somewhere.
Did you put a section of tubing inside the pipes or are they just going to be butt welded?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 09:41 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Diesel Powered Rocket
Nice progress........It's been so long since you last posted I thought you had gotten lost in a cornfield somewhere.
Did you put a section of tubing inside the pipes or are they just going to be butt welded?
Yeah, I have been lost in school and picking up my new track car

The pipes are butt welded, its how we do all of our intercooler piping at the shop (I work for a performance shop). Never had any issues with it. That is the only way to get the best flow out of the pipes. Works great!

Got the pipes done today, and they look good. Haven't had a chance to polish them yet, though, but don't think I will just yet. I have too much other stuff to worry about. At least now I can move the truck around without worrying about running rich and without an air filter!
 
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 09:49 PM
  #123  
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CR racing is a good bro. i've bought a lot of stuff from him over the years and has never let me down.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 10:01 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by LORDDiESEL
CR racing is a good bro. i've bought a lot of stuff from him over the years and has never let me down.


Who did what?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 06:31 PM
  #125  
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 06:31 PM
  #126  
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 08:02 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by mkriebs
The pipes are butt welded, its how we do all of our intercooler piping at the shop (I work for a performance shop). Never had any issues with it. That is the only way to get the best flow out of the pipes. Works great!
OK

I'm on a fact finding mission because I wanted to modify the IC pipes on my 04 this winter. Please post a before polishing picture of the weld so that I have a baseline to gauge by.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 11:23 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Diesel Powered Rocket
OK

I'm on a fact finding mission because I wanted to modify the IC pipes on my 04 this winter. Please post a before polishing picture of the weld so that I have a baseline to gauge by.
Definitely! I just put them on the truck yesterday, didn't have time to polish them, nor take pictures. HOPEFULLY I will be working on the truck some today, but I think the heat in the shop broke, so then my bondo won't dry, and its about 20* outside, . Ew!
 
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 04:30 PM
  #129  
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Ok, finally got back to paying some attention to the VGT actuation. I have been thinking about it long and hard since I bought the turbo, and have done my research on many different people's setups. Well, some people's, I think is just too complex, and I can't wrap my little brain around the concept, or the advantages to their setup, so I came up with something that I haven't seen yet, and something that's EXTREMELY simple (I just hope this works).

For now, I have decided to plug the hole on the pneumatic cylinder that I was going to use for drive pressure, and just run the cylinder solely off boost. Its easiest this way, and I can see how this whole setup is going to work (and IF it works).

I started the day with making my bracket, and I guess that's as far as the fabrication goes, for now. So, here are some pictures of it. Most of you should be able to get the idea of what is going to happen.

Enjoy!

The bracket and the cylinder:
100_4729.jpg?t=1291236209

And about how it will mount to the turbo:
100_4730.jpg?t=1291236211

I need to run to town and get a carb ball stud, some more flat steel, and various spacers, washers, and fittings. Then, I should be able to continue this tomorrow or sometime before the end of the week.

Stay tuned!

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

One more picture with the fittings and stuff on:
100_4731.jpg?t=1291242576
 

Last edited by mkriebs; Dec 1, 2010 at 04:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 08:56 AM
  #130  
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I see a slight flaw in your cylinder plumbing.

If you plug one end of a pneumatic cylinder off completely, it won't be able to move even if you apply 100 PSI to the open end. You can check this by pulling on the piston rod while the plug is still in place.
If I understand your thought process here, you should be using a sintered metal exhaust cap in the end that you have plugged now.
You will also need to incorporate a spring return so that when you remove the pressure from the cylinder, it will then retract to the home/park position.

Hope this helps.
 
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