I guess that's also back when they used asbestos gaskets too.

 

But its exactly what you said.
Nope but not here to argue with you.


There are inherent protections against that happening built into the filter.
Like what? A post-filter filter?
Like a double screen for beginners.

As said, TP filters were fine in the 60's, but modern filtration technology has obsoleted them.
Just what modern filtration technology are you referring to? My spin on filter for my new truck is the SAME as they were 50 years ago yet people still purchase them.

A typical Fram (or any of the major spin-on brands) only filters down to about 21 microns. That's not enough for my engine.

Thats not the issue. Its the fact that TP is designed to remove fecal matter from an anus, not filter engine oil. There are many filters out there designed specifically as engine oil bypass filters. Nearly all of them offer 2um or better results, and you don't have to mess with a soggy mass of TP when you change them.
Yes, that IS the issue. Filtration is to remove the smallest particles possible in order to protect an engine. You are correct in that are other bypass filters which will get down to 2u or less but where did you get the notion that the TP is a soggy mess when changing them? Oh, wait, I know. From that guy on You Tube that is all thumbs and shouldn't be in front of ANY camera when he works on his VW. I'm probably going to put a video on You Tube myself to show just how clean and easy it is to change a TP. The only loss of oil will be what is in an almost dry TP element and not one drop on the deck.

I'm not here to sell you a Frantz.
Your username and avatar sure fooled me.....
I'll sell you one but my intent is to correct misconceptions SUCH AS YOURS for those who have never owned a Frantz (like you I'm sure).
My avetar, why not? It is probably the best other than my photo to represent who I am.

Getting to that "correcting some of the misinformation" bit....
Thats why all "modern" engines have an oil thermostat. Again, as said before, technology and knowledge changes with time, engines have ever higher and higher power density and they are using the oil as a cooling medium more than ever. Even some bottom of the range I4 and V6 engines have piston cooling jets. Manifold heat never actually worked anyways, thats why engines from the 70's, 80's and 90's had such problems with sludge.
That's simply too big a subjectmatter to even discuss you've hit so many areas.

I'm not going to change your slanted views of a Frantz or ANY bypass filter that uses TP as the element. Common sense prevails with open minds. I sell dozens of them monthly and have used one since 1960. I don't change my oil and my oil is cleaner than any oil you have ever seen or ever will until you try it. Why? Because you're still using a 21u spin on filter and anything smaller than 20u is still circulating in your engine creating that sludge you mentioned. I'll compare dipsticks any day.

Are you willing to TRY a unit at no cost other than postage and your pride?

 

I would qualify that on the condition he submits and posts before and after oil analysis comparisons on the same engine/oil combo. He'd still be money ahead as well as have a free Frantz, not to mention debunking his own rhetoric.

I know I did, and I've been running oil bypass filters on every vehicle I own ever since.

"The proof is in the pudding," as they say - not the unsubstantiated rantings of bellicose threadshytter.

 

So, am I to believe that the water coming from tailpipes is from the motor oil? Really? All this time I figured it was from the Catalytic Converter. Hydrocarbons being stripped of there carbon elements, leaving the free hydrogen atoms to mix with the free oxygen atoms in the atmosphere, binded by the heating process of the platinum coated ceramic, forming water molecules and all that jazz. Huh, it was from the oil all along. Good to know.

However, this does pose a slight querry into why, after deleting my cat, the water disappeared from my tailpipe. Must have been a coincidence, eh? And this water in the oil is getting past the valves and pistons, how, exactly? Sorry, am I being a dick about this? I'm not really trying very hard to be.

 

No, the water does not originate from the tail pipe although there is LOTS of H2O there. It originates from the high compression and combustion in the engine along with just plain old condensation. Condensation occurs when the engine is hot and then allowed to cool and the atmosphere inside the engine is trapped and nowhere for the water vapor to escape. The Frantz can remove 6.5 ounces of this water contamination along with soot from your deisel. Hope this helps you better understand.

 

I run Amsoil and FS2500 bypass filters on everything I own. I'm a big believer in bypass filtration.

I put 300,000 on the OEM 6.2 inmy 89 and 500,000 miles on the 6.5 I replaced it with.

 

Amsoil is an excellent bypass oil filter system. The comparison between Amsoil and Frantz comes down to the maintenance cost of the system. I think the last time someone told me the cost of an Amsoil replacement cartridge it was around $35 compared to the price of a roll of toilet paper for the same results.

The main objective is to at least install a bypass filter of some sort to increase filtration performance in your engine over OEM filters.

 

I realize that the water doesn't originate from the tailpipe, it originates from the catalytic converter and flows out of the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust leak forward of a cat doesn't leak water. The exhaust leak aft of the cat will leak water. Case it point, my wifes' '04 Grand Cherokee with a cat still drips water. My '77 CJ5 with a modified 360 CID still does not. Difference being: catalytic converter. Wait, let me check something... yep, my Jeeps still have oil in both of them.

Unless you are saying to put the Frantz filter in my fuel path. Is this what you are saying about pulling water from diesel? Aren't we talking about oil systems, here? The humidity here in North Pole, Alaska is less than 30% today, yet every car idling in the lot here at work to stay warm has an ice sickle hanging from the tailpipe to the ground, and they've only been parked there for 5.5 hours. Every vehicle but one, that is. The box truck, with the gas motor, but no cat. It does NOT have an ice sickle hanging from the tailpipe. Not even a little one. Sucking the same low humidity air, engines warmed up to operating temps since before they pulled into parking and stopped, never shut off to condensate a lick of moisture from our non-moisture containing air... only difference being a CATALYTIC CONVERTER. My truck, which I plug in at the entry control point and never bring out to my actual work due to me enjoying being alive, is plugged in. However, regarless of the weather, humidity, and hot/cold cycles that it takes, it never drips a single drop since removing the cat and going 4" turbo back.

You may want to google how a cat works, it's really quite interesting. And, you'd see what I'm talking about. The "greenies" like seeing water instead of smoke. Heck, if they could mandate that the water had a fresh pine scent, they would! We up here are very familiar with catalytic converters, and the water they cause. In fact, it was brought up on the legislation when we decided to nix our smog checks two years ago that the water dripping from catalitic converter equipped automobiles was causing vehicles stopped at red lights to lay down a sheet of ice. The water dripped from the tailpipes (even at -50*F, when the humidity is somewhere around the 10% level) of vehicles that had been warmed up from being outside, OR from those of us lucky enough to have heated garages, left our intersections slipperier than whale sperm on an iceberg! The amount of damages and insurance claims were figured to be around 45%-65% directly related to slippery intersections, mostly attributed to vehicles dripping water out the tail end, due to catalytic converters. The measure passed to nix the smog checks, but there's still a lot of vehicles equipped with cats. We have hippies up here, too, ya know. Look, I'm not saying that one filter is better than the next, because I don't have a bypass. I was, however, looking on here to get some info. After reading what I've seen here, and in other places, and watching guys post youtube videos of Amsoil bypasses and others having there oil pressure drop to about 7psi for about 3 minutes before it built up, I've decided NOT to get ANYBODIES bypass system. Even at -50*F my Cummins like some form of oil, even if it is in the mostly-solid form. I run Rotella T-6, so I am just planning to continue running a larger than normal full-flow filter and changing the oil every 7500 miles, like the book says. It's a Cummins, it's gonna last longer than the rest of my truck, anyway. I just want something still usable to drop into my next truck, 20 years from now!

 

Toilet paper is not designed to filter, its designed to remove feces from your sphincter. Frantz has stayed in business the same way K&N and Tornado Air have, the customers don't know any better!

 

$35 once per year is far from expensive. If you can't afford that, I genuinely feel sorry for you.