The engine shouldn't have any oil related problems during its lifespan. It's the turbocharger which is affected by contaminated oil first. The turbo has the tightest tolerances after the injection pump. Dirt build-up in the turbo is known to be one of the top failure causes.
Do you remember the symptoms of contaminated lube oil:

- Journal bearing OD & ID wear
- Thrust bearing surface wear
- Turbine shaft scoring
- Turbine and compressor wheel rub against housing
- Shaft fracture

And these are the causes of contaminated lube oil:

- Poor oil filter maintenance
- Oil filter bypass system( during cold start and when filters are clogged)
- Contaminates in oil galleries and oil lines that have aged and cracked internally
- Dirt left in engine or turbocharger after overhaul

Does anyone remember the Audi 200 quattro turbo?
Engineers were so scared about contaminated lube oil that they built in an x-tra oil filter only for the turbocharger.

To be honest:
I simply don't trust TP. I don't know how effective it is and I don't know how long it is able to filtrate before it collapses or is being saturated...

I change Radar oil filters, hydraulic oil filters, Coolant filters on a monthly basis. During all the time I work with that stuff, we got some new nanofiber filters by the same company. They are made a lot thinner than the old style filters.
Have a better flow( less resistance) due to its reduced thickness. I can monitor that directly at the flow meter.
The Fluids, with the exception of the cooling oil (risk of being boiled out) are allowed to stay 1 1/2 that long in the circuits.

If something works different it doesn't mean it is not that much effctive. The problem that I have with that TP unit, that it is not tested by a lab. A consumer being satisfied is not enough for me.
I would feel much better to have my engine (and the turbocharger!) protected as much as possible.

I'm not interested in extended oil drain intervals, because I go with the manual. I don't fear the higher costs for Synthetics, because compared with the turbocharger the oil is pretty cheap.

I want to keep the amount of contaminats smaller than 10 microns as small as possible( thats the reason why I kicked my K&N cone air filter).

 

I live in the country. It's called a burn barrel. he he.

 

Cellulose (what TP is made of) is and always has been the best depth filter media available, bar none. It will capture particles in the submicronic range. The only problem with the the single roll cannisters is they don't hold enough for a big diesel engine. Frantz makes a 3-stacker for larger engines and Gulf Coast makes a can that holds a roll of paper towels. That's what I run on my 1st Gen, change it once a year. I have Motorguards on three other cars. Excellent filters that easily beat the expensive Amsoil spin-on elements and proprietary designs like the Oilguard in terms of both efficiency and cost.

 

i feel like i've learned something after reading all of that...thx 2 u all....but damn....now i'm freaked out about my oil...i just change it every 5k w/ rotella T

 

You'll be fine, that's the way it's intended to be done nowadays, no worries. Full flow filters with frequent oil changes is just a scam started by the oil and car companies back in the early 60s to sell more oil and grow the service/repair business. If you change your oil/filter on scehdule, you'll never have a lube-related problem in the warranty period, just buy more oil/filters. If you forget to change it on time you'll be paying for out-of-warranty repairs. Everybody wins! Yaaaay!

Before then, most cars had bypass-type oil filters. Oil doesn't wear out, it just gets dirty. Additives will become depleted under certain circumstances way beyond the standard change intervals. The main problem is people just don't want to be bothered with it. Take it to the quickie lube and fuggedaboudit. New cars have been run to the end of the lease with the oil never changed.

If OTOH, you care about your equipment and want to maintain it in peak operating condition you do things like running additional filtration, oil analysis, what-have-you. That's like 2% of the driving public, by my estimation.

 

I was a Frantz distributor though Sky Corp. 30 years ago. I've used them on everything since including my 1990 FXRP Harley-Davidson motorcycle. I've saved a lot of money on oil changes, full-flow filters and maintenance over the years. Actually each roll removes up to 6 oz. of moisture and filters out down to 1/10th micron particles. In recent years, I use synthetic oil and just ad a quart when I change the roll (filter element). In fact I built a website to sell some of my inventory before George Walker had one and decided to re-manufacture them before he passed. Even more recently I learned how to improve combustion and save even more money by using Xp3 fuel conditioner. It is worth your time to check out... getfuel4free.com

 

Hi guys.

I'm a newbee here but am sincere about my filter I would like to ease some apprehension and false claims about the Frantz Filter. I do this from an education standpoint and not a sales position.

John Frantz was an amazing inventor back in the 1950s when he invented his oil filter. He took an ordinary roll of toilet paper and designed a way for the oil to circulate through an entire 4-1/2" of paper media resulting in the most clean oil anyone has seen. He filtered oil down to only 1 micron. Back then some vehicles didn't even come with a filter as it was an option.

I bought one of his Frantz Oil Filters in 1960 and had it installed for $29.95. I've used one ever since and loved it so much I decided one day to become a distributor for it. So I did.
Most spin on filters are built with a corrogated thin cardboard inside wound into a circle. Oil passes through this membrane which is all of about as thick as perhaps 5-10 sheets of copy paper. It is no secret how the Frantz filters so well. It is merely stated in INCHES of filtration media. How can you compare 10 sheets of paper vs 4.5" of complessed paper?

Never has an engine been damaged by loose fibers, etc. The Frantz does not remove liquid additives but rather only particulates in the form of solids - dirt and grime but it does have a propensity to remove water. Now THAT is important for a diesel engine. Water is an ingredient in acid. No water; no acid. No acid; engine is much happier.

For over 50 years the Frantz has been a reliable tool for us. Since it only keeps oil clean without changing the makeup of it then there is really no reason to throw good oil away and feed the pockets of these quick oil change shops around town that charge about $50 for an oil change and that is not synthetic oil replacement which many of you use.

I bought a new truck in late '08 and in January 2009 it saw its first and ONLY oil change. However, I do change the toilet paper regularly. So you see, the Frantz actually pays for itself.

Speaking of toilet paper - we're not talking about Charmin or any of the squeezable stuff in a grocery store. In fact, I do not recommend ANY TP found in a grocery or membership store. I only endorse commercial-quality 1-ply, 4.2" wide TP. We're talking about the stuff you find in a gas station on Route 66 or in a warehouse or school. The stuff you can practically see through. That is the best because it is wound tighter on the cardboard tube and density is the answer. Speaking of cardboard tube - they don't compress or collapse either due to a metal tube that supports them up through the center.

I hope I have enlightened you as to the product just a smidgin and much more information is available on my website www.frantzoil.com if you wish to review it.
I own a diesel but it is a tractor and yes, I change my oil once a year in the tractor but then it doesn't get the daily workout as our trucks do.

Thanks for your time and happy motoring. Ed

 

Wait a minute. I don't admit that. There are inherent protections against that happening built into the filter.
I'm a firm believer that "It it ain't broke don't fix it!" Frantz ain't broke so why fix it? A typical Fram (or any of the major spin-on brands) only filters down to about 21 microns. That's not enough for my engine.
I now see they are even using some sort of spun metal. That's also not filtering; that's screening. There are other equally-good filters on the market. AMSoil is one. I'm not sure why they upped their 1-micron rating to now 2-microns but what's one micron when you're speaking in terms of particles you can't even see? One micron, 2 microns, they both beat 21 microns.
I'm not here to sell you a Frantz. I'm only interested in correcting some of the misinformation. Much of the myths are from folks who have never owned a Frantz. That's okay but I just don't want to have a good product's name smeared by someone who has never had hands-on experience and just blows smoke. (I'm not inferring that you are either.)
Paper and cotton have been used for decades as a filter media ever since the Refiner on tractors back 100 years ago. The process is basic and about the only thing changed is there is no longer a heat source from the hot manifold to burn off water in the form of vapor. That would be one good thing to reintroduce.

Ed

 

So the banned troll who used to be known as forcedinduction has returned.

Still putting words in people's mouths and making absurd claims.

Why don't you go join a Mercedes forum or get back to work at the bus garage and stop wasting our time?

 

back in 80's when oberg(holley and moroso now) made pancake metal screen filters. they sent filters to i think BYU engineering school to test for particulate capture. the filter units actually picked up more material(cotton and/or paper-celluose) when used after various spin-on filter mfgr's. i don't use a full flow filter now but consider it in future, just hate miss informed.